Puppy Raising

Guide Dog puppies begin intensive training at the age of about 14 months. Until that time, they live with foster carers called puppy raisers. These families and individuals ensure that our new recruits get the best possible care in a loving home environment.

Puppy raisers come from all walks of life. They range from dog lovers who wish to care for a dog but can't provide lifelong care, to families learning to raise a dog before having their own pet.

Puppy raisers have one thing in common - they have the opportunity to help change people's lives forever. Their pup may become an invaluable companion to a person with special needs, either as a Guide Dog or a Pets As Therapy dog.

Puppy raisers are responsible for feeding, grooming and exercising their pups daily, along with basic obedience, house-training, and visits to the vet when needed. While this training is important, the dogs are first and foremost puppies - so plenty of games and tummy scratches are also required!

If you are selected as a puppy raiser, you will care for a puppy from the age of about eight weeks to 14 months - an important time of learning for dogs. We provide ongoing support and advice, with regular visits to your home to monitor the pup's development.

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Training the Guide Dog team

Step 3: Training the Guide Dog team

Dogs that successfully complete our rigorous training program are matched with a potential client. We make sure that the dog is well-suited to the client's specific lifestyle and travel needs.

For example, Beth White does the morning school run with her three children, runs her own massage therapy practice and loves to water ski in her spare time. Beth is also blind. But Beth doesn't let her disability dictate her choices, and she needed a confident, active guide dog to keep up with her busy life.

Beth's guide dog Teena is all this and more. Teena is a formidable guide and adapts to whatever situation is demanded of her, from guiding Beth to and from school with the children, the shops, Beth's college where she studied to become a massage therapist, swimming lessons and everything in between.

After Beth was matched with Teena, they trained together with the help of an Orientation and Mobility Instructor from Guide Dogs. Over four weeks, the instructor taught the new team how to travel together - both around Beth's home, her local community and further afield. Key to this training is Beth learning the right commands for Teena and the pair orienting themselves in Beth's environment. But it's not all about travel, with Beth also responsible for all aspects of caring for Teena, including diet, grooming and health checks.

As with Beth and Teena, training programs are provided free of charge and tailored to the needs of each person. Guide Dogs provides ongoing support and training, such as when a person is faced with new areas of travel, By maintaining this high standard of service, we ensure each person lives as independently as possible.

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Guide Dog training

Step 2: Guide Dog training

When the pups are about 14 months old, they return to the Guide Dogs Centre.

Over two weeks, our instructors carefully assess every puppy on several long walks. Prospective Guide Dogs must be eager to work, with good concentration and initiative. They must also control the temptation to be distracted by other animals.

With such stringent standards, not all puppies are suitable for guiding work. Puppies that are unsuitable may become Pets As Therapy dogs - much-loved companions for people who may be disadvantaged due to age, illness or disability. A dog that is unsuitable for either role is offered to its puppy raisers as a pet.

Puppies that are selected to become Guide Dogs undergo an intensive five-month program to learn the complex skills required for their new job. They begin with simple commands and progress to more challenging tasks. These skills include:

• Walking in a straight line without sniffing.
• Walking on the left-hand side slightly ahead of the trainer.
• Stopping at all kerbs.
• Waiting for a command before crossing roads.
• Stopping at the top and bottom of stairs.
• Avoiding obstacles at head height.
• Avoiding spaces too narrow for a person and a dog to walk through side by side.
• Boarding and travelling on all forms of public transport.
• Taking the trainer to a lift.
• Laying quietly for some time, particularly at a workplace or in restaurants.
• Refusing commands that may lead the trainer into danger - for example, if the trainer instructs the Guide Dog to walk them into a hole, the dog should refuse to walk forward when commanded.

Some tasks - for instance, stopping at kerbs and staircases - are taught through repetition. Other tasks, such as safely crossing the road, require intensive training. And it takes a well-trained dog to handle the unexpected, like a car reversing from a driveway.

As training progresses, Guide Dogs learn to travel through confusing and crowded areas, such as shopping centres and busy city streets. In fact, experienced Guide Dogs can lead their users to a list of destinations. As you can imagine, this requires careful teaching so the dog learns each command in a complex sequence of events.

Despite the hard work involved, Guide Dogs have a rewarding job indeed. These intelligent dogs lead an interesting life and enjoy its many challenges.

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Guide Dog Training

Step 1: Puppy raising

New puppies arrive at the Guide Dogs Centre at the age of approximately eight weeks.

We work with purebred Labradors, Golden Retrievers and Labrador/Golden Retriever crosses. These breeds are calm, loyal and intelligent, and have a proven track record as Guide Dogs. They also come in all shapes and sizes - just like the people who use our services!

Our veterinarian checks that the new recruits are confident, responsive and healthy - the qualities of a successful Guide Dog. The pups are then placed with families that have been specially selected by Guide Dogs staff. We call them "puppy raisers". (You can learn more about becoming a puppy raiser here.)

Over the next 12 months, these families will provide the pups with basic social skills, obedience and lots of fun! The pups will visit places they'll later encounter as Guide Dogs, and experience all the sights, sounds and - most importantly for any dog - smells of the outside world.

The dogs are visited regularly by our Puppy Raising Officers, who monitor their development and take them on training walks on their local area. In addition, the pups spend time at the Guide Dogs Centre - to help them become familiar with their next home.

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Where to find Dog Training Equipment to improve Fido's behavior

Our puppy was a real handful when we first brought him home from the animal shelter, he was six months old and giddy as anything in his new environment. It was obvious that he hadn't been introduced to Dog Training Equipment at any stage of his young life and the concept of Remote Dog Training Collars was completely alien to him. I can't understand why anyone would want to buy a dog and not be prepared to pay for Dog Training Equipment at the same time. Surely they want their dog to be obedient and respond to their command, it seems crazy not use Dog Training Equipment that would help in this area.Our puppy was a real handful when we first brought him home from the animal shelter, he was six months old and giddy as anything in his new environment. One thing we knew was our puppy needed lessons in obedience and Dog Training Equipment was the logical choice. What type of Dog Training Equipment should you buy? Here's the thing, from day one I knew that Remote Dog Training Collars would help our puppy. I'd used this type of Dog Training Equipment in the past and knew that it provided brilliant results. Dog Training Equipment is useful of you want to teach your dog how to respond to command whilst off the lead, especially when electronic trainers are used.Our puppy was a real handful when we first brought him home from the animal shelter, he was six months old and giddy as anything in his new environment. This type of Dog Training Equipment fits around the neck of a pet just like a normal collar but it gives you greater control over your pet. It's a simple to fit and easy to operate system and the Dog Training Equipment is the perfect solution for animals that misbehave when they're out and about.

How does the Dog Training Equipment work? Purchase Remote Dog Training Collars and the equipment emits a beep when the dog starts playing up, if they continue to misbehave a small electronic pulse can be triggered to correct the dog's wayward behaviour. We Used the Dog Training Equipment on our playful pup and it didn't take him long to get used to the collar.Our puppy was a real handful when we first brought him home from the animal shelter, he was six months old and giddy as anything in his new environment. Persistence is the key to the Dog Training Equipment and in a short period of time you have a well trained pet on your hands. Different versions of Dog Training Equipment are available and we bought out remote training collar through a company called British Dog who sold a wide range of training equipment suitable for dogs of all breeds.

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The Health Benefits of Milk Thistle for Dogs by David Lakins

One of the most popular herbal medicines for dogs is milk thistle. This article covers everything a dog owner needs to know about the properties of milk thistle, including how effective it is, how safe it is, and how it should be administered to pets.

As the name suggests, milk thistle derives from a flowering thistle, which is found in Southern Europe, North Africa and parts of the Middle East. The plant is recognisable by the bands of white on its leaves, which is the reason why it is commonly known as milk thistle.

The health benefits that can be derived from the thistle have long been known, though they have not been properly understood until recently. Ancient peoples noted the positive effects it had on the liver, and its usefulness as a treatment for hepatitis.

The active ingredient is called silymarin. It has been studied by doctors and veterinary health experts across the world, who confirmed that it can be an effective treatment for both humans and animals alike.

Liver Conditions

Liver conditions are among the most common serious ailments affecting canines, and are responsible for as much as 12% of deaths of pet dogs. Some dogs are particularly prone to liver problems, and these include lots of larger breeds like Dalmatians, Labradors, Great Danes, Dobermans, as well as some smaller ones like Cocker Spaniels. Cross breeds tend to be less affected by liver issues, thanks to their larger gene pool.

Silymarin is considered one of the most powerful substances for treating dogs with liver conditions. It can be given to dogs who are suffering from a number of ailments such as a fatty liver, hepatitis, liver tumours and liver disease. It works by attacking harmful free radicals and changing them into less damaging compounds, thus reducing the degradation they cause to cells. It also stimulates cell reproduction, which aids recovery from liver problems.

Side Effects

Part of the reason milk thistle is so widely used is that it is considered very safe for dogs. Animals with advanced liver disease can be given very high doses without being in danger of major side effects. Owners should nevertheless look out for symptoms such as gas and diarrhoea, because if their dog exhibits these then it may be a signal that the dosage of milk thistle needs to be reduced a little.

The one thing that dog owners are strongly advised not to do is giving milk thistle to healthy dogs as a supplement. Some studies have shown that if given over long periods of time, it may start to impair the natural function of the liver.

It is also considered best practice not to give silymarin to pregnant dogs. Medical research is currently scarce in this area, so most vets tend to urge on the side of caution and advise dog owners not to give it during pregnancy.

Overall though, milk thistle is a remarkably safe and effective treatment for dogs, and is often recommended by vets as an alternative to drug-based medicines. If you would like to know more about milk thistle, consult your vet and they should be able to provide you with some useful information and advice.

Milk Thistle tablets are one of the many herbal pet medicines supplied by Dorwest Herbs, all made using scientific testing methods and quality ingredients.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=David_Lakins

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Housebreaking Your New Puppy by Jon L Templeton

Puppy Love

There are few things in the world cuter than a wriggly little puppy. Their furry little faces, big eyes, and waggling tails make puppies irresistible. People often have no intention of getting a puppy until they see them, and then can't resist taking home the cuddly little balls of fur. When most people get a new puppy, however, they often only imagine the good things--a dog waiting to greet them at the end of the day, playing ball in the park, or going for hikes with their dogs. Many people fail to see the hard work which accompanies raising a polite, well-mannered dog, and housebreaking is often one of the hardest things a dog owner will do. Many people give up their dogs in the first few months because they cannot housebreak them properly. But by using a few simple strategies, you can make house training your puppy a positive experience for you and your dog, and make a lifelong partnership between you and your pet. It requires time, vigilance, and patience, but in the end it will be well worth your efforts.

Accidents Happen

First, it is important to note that accidents are going to happen. Very few dogs are housebroken without at least one (but usually several) accidents in your home. This can actually be used as a terrific opportunity to train your dog. If you catch him in the act of going to the bathroom inside, make a startling noise, and immediately bring your pet outside to a designated bathroom spot. Once your pet finishes going, praise him, and reward him to let him know he did the right thing by going outside.

Clean up the soiled area immediately, and bring any soiled towels or any additional mess outside to the bathroom spot. Your puppy will quickly begin to associate the smell, and learn this is where he needs to go in the future.

Hone in on the Routine

Establishing a bathroom spot immediately outside of your house is part of the housebreaking process. If you bring your pet to the same spot every time, and reward him for his efforts every time he successfully eliminates there, he will begin to learn that spot as an association for going to the bathroom. When you bring your pet to the designated bathroom spot, be sure to use words like "go potty" so that the words will also be associated with the behavior. It will be an excellent reminder to your dog later on to go potty when he first wakes up or before going to bed at night.

Set a routine to make house training your puppy easier for you and your pup. After feedings, waterings, playing, and sleeping, take your puppy to the outside bathroom area to go. This way your pup will know he is going to go outside to go to the bathroom after each of these activities. By taking him outside frequently and immediately after each of these activities, you will avoid too many messes in your home, and help your dog to establish a routine with eliminating. Dogs are creatures of habit, and setting a routine for them according to their dog calendar is going to be one of the easiest ways to get them housebroken with minimal accidents.

Supervision and Monitoring

Constant supervision is another key to successfully house training your puppy. When indoors, keep your new puppy close by within eyesight at all times. One good way of doing this is to keep your pet tethered to you by a leash at all times while you are home with the puppy. This way, you can not only check for signs of your dog needing to go to the bathroom, but you can keep your puppy from getting into mischief as well. Look for behaviors such as circling or sniffing as indicators of needing to go to the bathroom. When you observe these behaviors, bring your dog outside immediately, and praise him when he goes.

If you cannot closely watch your dog at all times, keeping him in a confined space is going to help with house training your puppy. Whether it is an area of your home which is blocked off with boxes or baby gates, or a crate for your puppy, keeping him confined will usually prevent accidents as well as prevent your puppy from getting into trouble. Dogs don't like to eliminate where they sleep, so make sure the area is small enough to keep him from wanting to urinate in the area, but large enough for him to be able to stand up, lay down, and turn around.

Altering the Routine

If you find you are going to be gone for long periods of time, you cannot expect your new puppy to be able to hold his bladder for more than a few hours. If this is the case, paper training in the home may be the easiest way to begin housebreaking your new puppy.

Bear in mind that if you paper train your pet, you may be prolonging the entire housebreaking process, and may make your pet prefer to eliminate on paper for the rest of his life. If this method is to be used, however, it is important to bring any soiled towels or anything used to clean up accidents in the home to an area where newspaper is spread out. This way your puppy will smell the area and begin to understand that the area is to be used for eliminating. Keep your dog confined to a slightly larger area where there can be room to sleep and a separate space to eliminate if the urge strikes.

When house training your puppy, praise works far better than punishment. It is important to carry treats with you for the first few weeks of house training to reward your dog immediately upon eliminating in the proper area. If you wait until you have gone back inside, your dog will often have forgotten the good deed.

Instant gratification will be one of the more successful measures of house training your puppy. On the flip side, punishment is not a good tool for house training your puppy. Rubbing their noses in it, or scolding them after the fact only makes them afraid of eliminating in front of you. The best thing you can do after the fact is to simply clean it up, and put the soiled towels in the bathroom area.

Housebreaking a dog is often what makes or breaks a good relationship between a person and his dog. It takes a lot of work, and a lot of diligence to have a dog properly house trained. When your dog has gone 2-3 months without having an accident, you can consider him successfully housebroken.

Until then, establishing a routine, constant supervision, and designating an area as the bathroom area just outside your home will help your pet associate going to the bathroom with the outdoors.

Jon Templeton recommends purchasing Weruva from only trustworthy and experienced online pet food retailers. For more information, view Jon's top recommended Weruva dog food retailer's gi-nor-mous selection of long-lasting dog chews, dog food, cat food, dog treats and litter available for purchase and free shipping.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jon_L_Templeton

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Protecting Your Animal From Summer Heat by Emily J Jayden

Summer comes right on the dot each year, and everyone welcomes the summer heat and takes to the outdoors to soak up the sunshine and warmth. However, over-exposure to the sun can be bad for your health, including the health of your animals. As much as it is important for you to protect yourself, there is no less importance to protect your pets, too.

How Do Animals Adapt Themselves To The Heat?

Just like the humans, animals will also find ways to adjust and acclimatized to the weather. During the summer, most warm-blooded animals will pant to lose their bodily heat through evaporation. They cool-off under the shade, or by soaking in pools of water. On the other hand, cold-blooded animals love to bask in the sun to warm up and to increase their metabolism. Yet when the heat becomes too extreme, they will move to shady areas, open their mouth, lighten their skin color or burrow underground to cool themselves down.

While these are the natural habits of animals in the wild, our beloved pets may not be privileged to adapt to the weather all on their own. Your pets, or even the animals reared for commercial purposes, are confined to artificial environments and as their owner, it is your responsibilities to adopt appropriate measures to protect animal from any extreme heat.

What Risks Does Animals Faced In The Summer?

The summer temperature can put your animals at risk. Contrary to many beliefs, animals do suffer from sunburn. White animals, short or thin haired, or those that have had their hair cut or shaved are sensitive to the sun and can suffer from sunburn. Just like humans, they can develop skin cancer too.

Gardening during summer increases the likelihood of animal contact with fertilizers and other chemicals used in the garden. Mosquitoes, flies, fleas, ticks and other bugs are most prevalent in the summer heat and cause health issues for animals. Animals also do not react well to summer storms, which may sometimes cause tremendous anxiety. The extent of their anxiety-attacks may be potentially dangerous to their safety. Damages to property and injuries sustained by the animal are not uncommon.

How Can You Protect Animals During Summer?

The sweltering heat during summer can be especially difficult for some animals. First and foremost, it is imperative to keep your mind on your animals' hydration. It is always a good rule of thumb to give them plenty of water to ward off the dehydrating summer heat. Invest in good-sized bowls or bottles to make sure they have access to a steady supply of water throughout the day, even when you are not around. If you can help it, do not leave your animals unattended outside under the hot sun. It is advisable to keep them indoors or under a large shaded area during the hottest part of the day to prevent dehydration and to protect animal from heat stress and heat stroke. Keep them under leash if you have to as a precaution. Make time to groom and bathe them frequently to keep them comfortable and insulated from the heat, pet sitters can prove to be a handy choice here.

A professional pet sitting, service can save your animal from the burning heat of Texas.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Emily_J_Jayden

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Trimming Your Dachshund's Nails By Bob Boylan

I hear it time and again, "I won't trim my dachshund's nails because I can't handle the possibility of hurting him." With a little knowledge and patience, it will be a much less scary process for both of you. Your dog will pick up on your emotions, so the more nervous you are, the more nervous your dog will be. So take a breath, relax, and read this article.

One grooming step that all dogs need is to have their nails trimmed regularly. This should be started right away when they are just weeks old. That is the responsibility of the breeder to get them used to the process. Depending on when the breeder will let their puppies go home, their nails should have been trimmed at least two or three times already. If you have found a good breeder, they will be handling their puppies all of the time anyway, so they should be well socialized and not afraid of having their nails trimmed. If your dog has not been properly socialized and is skittish when you try to trim their nails, you can slowly get them used to being handled for a trim. When you are sitting or lying with your dog, touch and hold their feet, one at a time, just so they can get used to you handling their paws. This process can go on for weeks before they are comfortable. When you start trimming your dachshund's nails, just take the tips off so there is very little chance of cutting too short.

You will need to make some plans before you decide to trim your dachshund's nails. One of these is what kind of trimmer to use. I do not recommend the use of a guillotine type trimmer as these are trickier to use and the nails can catch if your dog decides to move their foot at the wrong time.

The trimmer I like to use is the basic bypass trimmer, not a guillotine type. There are wide varieties to choose from, so pick the one you feel most comfortable with. Nail grinders are available, but they can be loud and it takes longer this way. It does leave a nice smooth surface; however, I would only recommend this for experienced groomers.

You should also buy some styptic powder while you are getting your trimmer. Even professional groomers and veterinarians will sometimes get the nail trimmed too short and the nail can start to bleed. The styptic powder will act as a clotting agent and will stop the bleeding fast. To use the powder, pinch some styptic in between your pointer finger and your thumb, gently grab your dog's foot with your other hand, and push the powder onto the bleeding nail and hold it there for 15 to 30 seconds. This should successfully stop the bleeding. If it still bleeds through, put more powder on the nail until it does stop bleeding.

If you have someone who can help you hold your dog while you do the trimming, that would be great. Since the dachshund's legs are short and do not stretch or bend as easily as other breeds, I recommend that your partner holds your dog vertically against their chest while supporting their but.

Definitely use two hands! That way their paws are out front and easier to access.

Start by gently but firmly holding your dog's paw. Pushing softly on the pad of each toe will set the nail out further to give you better access to the nail. If your dog has white nails, you should be able to see where the quick is and trim the nail just a bit longer than the quick. If your dog has dark nails, you will want to start out a little further and trim off small bits until you get close enough that you can just barely see a lighter color on the inside of the nail. That means you are getting close to the quick. You should also be able to see how your dog's nail starts to curve just after the quick ends. That is a good guide on where to start trimming. Most dogs will still have their dew claws on their front feet, occasionally; a dog will have them on their back feet also. Do not forget to trim these dew claws every time. These claws can easily curve around and dig into your dog's leg if they get too long.

If you go into this with confidence and patience, you will have a much better experience and your dog will be more comfortable and easier to handle. After just a few times, you will wonder why you were so worried in the first place.

Bob Boylan is an advocate for the dachshund breed and has been raising dachshund puppies since 2001. He is dedicated to educating the public about breeders and the best methods to use to find a good breeder and a great puppy.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bob_Boylan

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Organic, Homemade Dog Food - Good Food in the Nude

You'd have to be living under a rock if you've missed all of the buzz about organic foods. Even your dog's heard about it. A whole pack of folks believe that pesticides, herbicides, human waste, sewage sludge, radiation, genetic modification, and artificial additives have no place in or on our produce. But what about meat? Did you know that your meat - and the meat that you prepare for your dog - can be organic, too?

Organic meat is harvested from animals that have been raised without artificial growth hormones or antibiotics, and have not been fed animal by-products. Organic foods provide no more nutritional value than conventional ones, but their attraction is strictly about what's NOT in them. You'll be paying more for less (about twice as much) - but, it's less of what you DON'T want. Most grocers carry organic meat, and if they don't, ask for it.

Almost any homemade dog food recipe can be converted to organic - by simply replacing conventional ingredients with organically-produced ones. Here's one that will fly out of the bowl:

Organic Wings 'N' Things

$7.00, 5 minutes
half cup organic cottage cheese
half cup organic grated carrots
4-5 organic skin-on raw chicken wings (or cooked organic chicken, with bones removed)
Pile up your dog's bowl (using our weight calculator) with these yummy ingredients and watch 'em fly.

Homemade Holistic Dog Food - Feeding the Whole Dog

Holistic feeding methods and medicine stand upon the idea that feeding the mind and body will serve to restore and maintain health and vitality. Principles include ideals such as balance and variety. Holistic diets may be fed raw or cooked - your choice.

Meal rotation and variety is essential to holistic health principles, just as variety is essential to your own good daily diet. Dogs are naturally less carnivorous than cats. Their teeth testify to this - if you open the trap, you'll notice canines for ripping and grinders for other items that they naturally ingest while foraging in the wild.

Holistic dog food notions dictate that grains are okay for dogs - based on the premise that when dogs eat wild animals, they also ingest the stomach contents of those animals, including grains and greens. Many holistic dog food recipes hover right around 2 parts protein, 1 part carbohydrates, and 1 part vegetables. Using these guidelines, you can whip up any number of recipes. Here's a yummy example:

Buffaloaf

$10.00, 1 hour 3 cups ground buffalo (lean)
2 eggs
1 and a half cups old fashioned oats
three quarter's of a cup grated mixed vegetables, including zucchini, broccoli, carrots, and sweet potato
half cup cottage cheese
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Hand-mix all ingredients and press into a loaf pan. Bake for 40 minutes. May be refrigerated, or frozen in slices for easy serving.
Substitute ground turkey, chicken, or beef, if desired. Mixing meats is not recommended.

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Raw Meat Mix - The Unstew

Raise your paw if you like it raw! 

1 lb. raw ground meat
2 cups ground or pureed vegetables
2-4 oz. raw organ meat (liver, gizzards, etc.)
half cup apple cider vinegar
2-3 cloves garlic
1 T ground kelp
half cup plain yogurt
3 eggs with shells
palmful of parsley
Mix all ingredients (chop, puree, or leave in large chunks, depending on your dog's preference) and store in the refrigerator or freezer. This mixture should account for 20-40% of your dog's daily diet.

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The remaining 60-80% of your raw-food-eating dog's daily requirement should consist of raw meat and bones (backs, necks, carcasses). These items should range from $0.00 - $2.00 per pound, depending on how friendly you are with your butcher.

In raw conclusion...

Of course, percentages of meat to vegetables is approximate. But most raw food experts agree - the most important part of a raw dog food diet is the meat. Our furry friends are carnivores, and eat little or no vegetables in the wild.

Benefits of a raw dog food diet include fewer, and more compact stools; muscle development in the jaw, neck, and shoulders (resulting from the chewing required by the meat and bone diet); better digestion due to slower, labored chewing; and an extended lifespan - thanks to an adherence to a natural, unprocessed, diet.

Have an aversion to feeding raw meat? Is your dog a scarfer, not skilled at chewing bones? Then debone it! Cook it! Read on for recipes that cater to the more evolved canine.

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Raw Dog Food, or BARF (Biologically Appropriate Raw Food - or - Bones and Raw Food):

Your dog is a wild animal that has been domesticated (some more than others). And, as with humans, any species' best diet is its native one. And a dog's native diet? MEAT.

Additionally, many would attest that raw meat is optimal. Unlike humans, dogs are not generally susceptible to things like salmonella and e-coli. You and I might regularly eat raw meat if our systems could handle it - but we need to cook our meat to kill the bacteria that have the potential to devastate our digestive systems.


When meat is cooked, proteins, vitamins, and minerals break down and lose their benefit. Raw meat is also high in moisture - it provides a significant amount of your dog's daily water requirement (and that's great for proper kidney function). The great majority of your dog's diet should consist of meat protein - which is the one fool-proof ingredient that we know all dogs can digest and thrive on.

Commercial dog foods contain soy, corn, and wheat - all common allergens for dogs. Raw dog food advocates maintain that all grains should be eliminated from our dogs' diets. They also cite that grains have been blamed as culprits for pancreatic stress and tooth calculus, that our dogs were not designed to process these items, and that asking them to thrive on grains is like asking a human to thrive on a red meat diet - most experts would advise against it.

Let's start by discussing what a raw-food dog's diet should consist of. All meat should, obviously, be uncooked, and may include: Eggs (with shell), beef, buffalo, venison, elk, chicken, turkey, emu, ostrich, rabbit, and fish. Small animals, like rabbits and fish, may be fed whole - dogs love it this way.
At least 60-80% of your dog's raw food diet should consist of raw meat. Further broken down, that meat allowance should be roughly 20% organs, 20% skin and fat, and 35% muscle meat.

Bones included in a fresh kill are okay, and hold nutrition essential to your dog's well being. Beware, though - never feed old bones that have been inside a dead animal for any length of time or that have been preserved in any way. The best bone is a just-dead one. A fresh kill rabbit or a whole, fresh chicken provide whole meat and bone nutrition. And, yes, chicken bones are safe to feed your dog, provided that they remain fresh and uncooked (ask your Vet if you are still unsure). Bones become brittle and prone to splintering after they're cooked. When fresh, they are more easily chewed and digested.

Vegetables may be combined with meat, to account for 20-40% of your dog's diet. Appropriate ones include: Broccoli, squash, Romaine lettuce, carrots, cabbage, celery, and asparagus. Take note to any bloating or gas problems that your dog may experience. If he's looking distended and feels sluggish, start by eliminating the broccoli (that's usually the culprit), and then move on to the others until you find the gas-maker.

Where to get the raw meat? That's easy - visit your local butcher. Ever wonder what happens to the parts that we don't eat? Likely, they're tossed into the dumpster. Ask that butcher for left-overs, such as animal carcasses, necks, backs, feet, and tails. But remember - all meat should be fit for human consumption. Our dogs' systems can handle more than ours, but don't forget that you'll be handling the meat. After preparing meals for your dog, cleaning up with pure white vinegar will eliminate any bacteria from countertops and feeding bowls.

Intrigued? Ready to reintroduce your dog to his roots? Here's a homemade dog food recipe that he's bound to relish:

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Homemade Dog Food Recipes...

What would you prefer? A TV dinner, or a homemade stew made by Mom herself? Most of us have eaten both, and have a preference. I can't speak for your mother's cooking ability, but chances are, she can do a bit better than a frozen brick of kinda-food. This example may make it easier to empathize with your dog when you fill his bowl with nuggets of processed corn meal and he glances up your way that saying, "You've got to be kidding me."

Or, maybe your best buddy is more than willing to scarf down anything that hits the bowl. In that case, you might want to ask yourself, "Is conventional dog food the best thing for him?" Your dinner choices might be a no-brainer, but choosing the best option for your pet isn't always that easy. He's relying on you to make the healthiest, and most enjoyable, choices for him.

When you make food at home for your dog, you are ensured that your dog is eating food that meets your standards, and is free of preservatives, fillers, and chemicals that are often found in commercial dog foods.

Join me, and we'll discuss the questions that both you and your dog have been asking about homemade dog food. We'll explore the different avenues available to gain and maintain a healthy coat and skin, lean muscle, strong bones and teeth, hearty organs and immune systems, high energy, efficient digestion, and an increased life expectancy. In other words, all the things we want for our much loved dogs.

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How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

The techniques below have proven to be an effective way to stop dogs eating dog poop. You should try one method or combine a few until you break your dog's habit. Remember that unecessary punishment or getting angry with your dog does not work - for this or any other dog behavior problem.

• Feed well balanced and nutritious meals.
• Try feeding twice a day at regular times rather than only once.
• Always keep your dog's living area clean of feces and provide a few stuffed chew toys to keep them occupied.
• Be sure to adequately exercise and stimulate your dog - mentally and physically.
  
• Teach your dog the basic obedience command "leave it". If you have established yourself as the fair and always consistent leader in your owner-dog relationship, this command will work immediately. To learn how to properly obedience train your dogs try dogproblems.com membership - I have achieved great results using these methods.
• A technique I successfully used to stop my mother's Shih Tzu from eating her poop was to put a tablespoon of pineapple in her food. Apparently pineapple tastes terrible when eaten in poop - can't say I've tried it myself! Other people have used Pumpkin, Spinach, Pickles or Garlic for the same purpose.
• Always reward desired behavior.
• As soon as you see your dog in the act of pooping provide a distraction. Maybe run off on him or call him over to you straight away - you can then praise or reward him. This may be sufficient to break this nasty habit, but you must be consistent using this method.
• If you visit your local pet store you will find various products specifically designed for this problem. Forbid and Deter are a couple of products which have proven to help some dogs stop eating feces.
• Another method (I haven't tried this one) which you could adopt is to slice your dogs poop length wise and lace it with tabasco sauce or cayenne pepper (don't laugh, apparently it works).
• In some cases fitting a muzzle to your dog may help to break a feces eating habit. This method is suitable in times when your dog is off leash, like at the beach or local dog park.
• Use the power of "negative association" through the use of a choke or prong collar. Fit your dog with the collar and every time he goes to eat poop give a short sharp tug on the leash. This correction will quickly teach your dog that eating poop is not a pleasant experience. This is an obedience training technique, you can learn how to properly bond and obedience train your dog with this training resource.

Whichever method you try with your dog be sure to be consistent. You must enforce your strategy every time in order to stop dogs eating dog poop. The longer you let this habit establish itself, the harder it will be to break.

One last thing - most dogs do eventually grow out of their poop eating habit, just not fast enough for us owners!

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Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop - Dog Coprophagia

How To Stop Dogs Eating Dog Poop

Dog Coprophagia is one dog problem that us dog owners hate. To us it's a filthy habit that just doesn't make any sense. I mean why would our much loved pets eat dog or cat poop when we are feeding them perfectly good meals?

Dog Coprophagia (eating feces) is most common in puppies up to a year old, but can occur at any stage throughout a dog's life. For such a wide spread problem there hasn't been much research conducted into how to stop our dogs from eating dog poop.

The good news though for us dog lovers is that there are many proven techniques or training methods we can call on to correct this habit.

If your puppy or older dog has taken a fancy to eating feces, read on...

Why Do Dogs Eat Dog or Cat Poop?

There are lots of theories as to why our dogs eat their poop - they can be broken down into two general groups:

1. Canine Behavioral Problem
2. Underlying Medical Problem

If you believe a medical problem could be causing your dog to eat her poop then a trip to your Vet is a must. They will perform an examination and can pinpoint the problem for you immediately.

An important thing to remember for all dog owners who have a poop eating puppy, is to ensure that all dog vaccinations and worming treatments are up to date. The reason for this is that various diseases and internal parasites can be passed from dog to dog through coprophagia.

Common Causes Of Dog Coprophagia

• It simply tastes good to your dog (disgusting I know!).
• Could be a symptom of anxiety, stress or boredom.
• Puppies may have a vitamin or mineral deficiency and they eat feces to restore this balance.
• If a puppy is punished for eliminating (pooping) inside your house he may on future occasions eat his poop to "hide the evidence". This could happen because your puppy has misinterpreted the punishment. In other words he believes that he was punished for pooping, rather than for pooping in the wrong area.
• Could be that your dog is cleaning up his living area. This of course should be the owner's job.
• Sometimes dogs develop this feces eating habit because they are copying the behavior of other dogs. There is also a theory that some dogs eat their poop because they see their owners cleaning it up, and they just decide to do it for themselves (not sure about this one).
• Bitches with a young litter of pups will often eat the puppy's droppings. This is to keep the area clean and also to help conceal the litter from any predators.
• Could be the result of over feeding. If a dog is over-fed he doesn't properly digest his food, therefore his feces still smell and taste like his dinner!
• If you only feed once a day, some dogs can become very hungry and scavenge around for any food (including poo).
• Some dogs have been known to develop Coprophagia when put on certain medications or antibiotics.
• A dog may eat the feces of a sick dog. This behavior is an attempt to conceal or protect the sick dog from predators.
• Dog owners have noted that when changing their dog's diet the dog has developed coprophagia - especially if the change was to a diet high in fat.

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Why Do Dogs Bark? Stop Your Dog From Barking Now!

• To express their needs (being bossy).
• Some dogs are bred to bark (some terriers and hounds).
• They are staking out their territory.
• To alert other members of their pack (that's you and your family) of impending danger.
• When playing, just through sheer excitement - this is a very common type of puppy barking.
• Barking at other animals. Depending on where you are in the world, it could be squirrels or possums (I'm in Australia - my dogs go crazy at possums).
• If they are isolated.
• Some dogs bark excessively when separated from their pack (you and your family).
• If they are trapped behind some type of barrier like a fence or window.
• Just for fun!
• To express dominance (puppies normally test you out at some stage with a display of dominance barking).
• They bark because their owners have inadvertently rewarded excessive barking in the past (this is crucial to understand)
• Through boredom or a lack of physical and mental stimulation.
• May feel stressed or uncomfortable for some reason. Things like feeling threatened or if they don't have an appropriate place to sleep can cause excessive barking problems.
• Dogs that haven't been properly socialized often become nuisance barkers.
• May be looking for a response or some attention from their pack.

Another thing to keep in mind is that even though it may appear to you that your dog is barking at nothing, this is not necessarily the case. This is due to the fact that your dog has a much more acute sense of hearing, smell and sight than us humans. Your dog's excessive barking is most probably being triggered by something.

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Training A German Short hair Pointer

As mentioned earlier the German Shorthaired Pointer is very intelligent and takes to training with great enthusiasm and skill.

All the basic obedience training commands (sit, stay, down, come...) are picked up easily by GSP's. Be sure to use positive reward based training methods with your Pointer - they certainly don't require (or enjoy) any forceful methods based on intimidation and fear.

A couple of training issues you will want to get right with a German Shorthaired Pointer are the "come" command (they love to wander off at the dog park!) and how to walk nicely while on leash. Pointers are very strong so you don't want to get involved in a tug of war with your dog while on leash - no one wins in such a game.

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German Shorthaired Pointer Appearance

The German shorthaired pointer is a medium sized dog of about 21 to 25 inches in height, and weighing about 55 to 70 pounds. The females tend to be a bit smaller than males in most cases. GSP's are athletic and should appear streamlined, with powerful hind muscles that aid in quick pursuit or sudden turns during a hunt. To aid in swimming, the breed also has webbed feet. Shorthaired pointers have long, straight muzzles, and high set, broad ears that flop over close to the head. It is also very common to have a shorthaired pointer's tail docked, though this is now illegal in some countries.

One of the most interesting things about a German shorthaired pointer's appearance is its coat, which is dense and sleek, and also comes in many interesting colors. A dark brown color, often identified as "liver" is quite common, as is black, though a black coat disqualifies a dog from showing in the AKC. These colors are often accompanied by white spots, sometimes in large amounts, other times in a mottled appearance that is known as "ticking". A very common color variation is a dog whose whole front half is liver, followed by ticking on the hindquarters and extremities. The German shorthaired pointer's coat is also extremely functional, having a dense undercoat topped with stiff guard hairs which are water repellant and seal in warmth. Overall this breed not only has a uniquely beautiful appearance, but also an extremely functional one as well.

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German Shorthaired Pointer Training & Breed Information

a sleek, athletic body and a unique dappled coat, the German shorthaired pointer is an instantly recognizable breed. Wonderful both as family and hunting dogs, this breed has an ancient and rich background, and is a worthwhile study for anyone thinking about getting a dog.

The earliest dog that the German shorthaired pointer can be traced to is the Spanish pointer, which was introduced in Germany at some point in the 1600's. From this breed the Germans wanted to create a dog that was excellent at both pointing and retrieving and could traverse land and sea.

They were really aiming to create an all-purpose hunting machine. It is not entirely known what breeds were mixed with the Spanish pointer to achieve the German shorthaired pointer of today, but it is thought that the foxhound, schweisshund, German bird dog, English pointer, and several Scandinavian breeds were mixed along the way to create the breed. It was in the 19th century that German shorthaired pointers were truly refined, with the first stud book being created in 1870.
One of the driving forces behind the shaping of the breed was Prince Albrecht zu Solms-Brounfield of the Royal House of Hanover, who encouraged breeders to breed for function rather than form.

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German Shepherd Training - They Love It!

German Shepherds grow to be big, strong dogs who can be fairly stubborn and will display dominance if allowed to get away with it. They require a firm, consistent and always fair leader to guide them, and set them up for success. German Shepherd training provides the ideal constructive outlet for all of your GSD's energy and focus. German Shepherd training establishes the boundaries which will help your dog to be a reliable and well respected member of society.

German Shepherds love the challenge and mental stimulation they receive from obedience training. From German Shepherd potty training right through to advanced obedience training your GSD will prove to be a great student. You'll find that time spent training your German Shepherd is the prime time where you will build and strengthen a strong lifelong bond with your dog.

German Shepherd obedience school is a good choice when training your GSD.
Alternatively you can discover all the latest german shepherd training techniques in this comprehensive training resource - Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer. This course is a very suitable choice for all of your German Shepherd care and training information.

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German Shepherd Health

As stated above, a reputable German Shepherd Breeder is real asset when finding your lifelong friend.
Over the years the German Shepherd Dog has encountered more than a few health problems. With good management and responsible breeding many of these ailments have been eliminated or reduced.

Some problems you should at least be aware of are hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and shoulder problems. GSD's are also prone to bloat (gastric torsion), degeneration of the spinal cord, haemophilia and numerous skin allergies. It's also important to keep your German Shepherd's teeth and gums healthy - especially as they get older.

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German Shepherd Dogs - The All Important Temperament

Unfortunately the quick growth in popularity of the German Shepherd has led to dogs of widely varying temperaments.

At its best the GSD is a wonderful companion for any family. The breed is intelligent, observant, self assured, loyal, courageous, protective and eager to please.

To give yourself every chance of bringing a well balanced, good natured GSD into your life it's imperative to find a reputable German Shepherd breeder. A good breeder will sell you quality stock that is both physically and mentally sound.

The other factors which will come into play when shaping the temperament and character of your dog are your ability to provide proper puppy socialization and German Shepherd training.

Puppy kindergarten classes are a great place for socialization and early training. Your German Shepherd Puppy will need to be exposed to all types of people, dogs, animals and experiences during the socialization period. This process should be started by your dog's breeder and then continued on when your young pup arrives home.

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German Shepherd Training and Breed Information

German Shepherd Dogs are one of the most sought after companion dogs in the world, and for good reason...

GSD's (sometimes called Alsations) were first bred in Germany in the late 1800's. We can thank Captain Max Von Stephanitz for developing this fantastic breed, which has spread to all parts of the globe in recent years. The German Shepherd has proven to be the most versatile of all dog breeds, they are basically good at just about anything!
 
The GSD's high intelligence, strong athletic physique and silky smooth movement has seen the breed excel at all kinds of duties. German Shepherds are trained and considered invaluable in such jobs as seeing eye dogs, police work, search and rescue, herding, protection, bomb and drug detection and as guard dogs. They also relish activities which stimulate their acute senses such as tracking, agility, flyball, endurance work, schutzhund and German Shepherd obedience training.

It's in their role as family pets that the German Shepherd really comes into its own. When provided adequate puppy socialization, regular exercise and some specific German Shepherd training they make brilliant household companions. German Shepherds love nothing more than to spend time bonding with their human family. They are happiest when included in all family activities like swimming, running, playing, walking through the forest or even just lazing on the couch. German Shepherds are well known and much loved for the close bond they share with their family (for this reason separation anxiety can sometimes be a concern).

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How To Choose A Dog Breed

So you're ready to bring a new family member into your household - you've decided to get a dog. You understand what is required to become a responsible dog owner - and are prepared to do it.

You're now in the process of choosing a dog breed that will suit your lifestyle, personality and requirements. This is an important long term decision for you and anyone you live with. It pays to put in some research to ensure you reach the right decision.

When you visualize the type of dog you picture yourself living with for the next 15 years the dog's breed is just one of the many factors you need to consider. It is a vital piece of the puzzle but merely because you pick out a breed with some qualities you desire does not automatically mean you will end up with your "perfect dog". What it does mean is that you will probably discover a breed of dog which is compatible to you and has the potential to be everything you had hoped for.

The other just as crucial ingredients (along with the dog's breed) that combine to determine what type of dog you will share your life with are:

• Where you purchase your dog from - always buy from a conscientious and reputable dog breeder if possible.
• Which puppy you choose out of the litter.
• The puppy socialization your dog's breeder and then you give to the dog.
• The Obedience Training you provide - this includes things like household etiquette, leash training and the basic obedience commands like sit, stay, come, down etc...

The above ingredients all come together to determine the health, well-being, character and behavior habits of your dog.

When choosing a dog breed it's a good idea to talk with people who have first hand experience with the breed you are interested in. Your local veterinarian, dog breeders and obedience trainers are a valuable source of information. Also if you visit any dog shows you can talk with the owners of just about any breed - this will make the picture clearer for you.

Right here on this page you can continue your dog breed research by taking the dog breed recommender test and browsing through the extensive list of dog breeds. 

 

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Dog Pregnancy - Giving Birth

Take her temperature periodically. It is normally 101-102 degrees Fahrenheit. Once you see it drop into the 97-99 degrees range, and notice it has been the same consistently for 2 readings taken 12 hours apart, this is when you can be sure the delivery will happen within the next 24 hours.

Her labor will go through 3 clear stages. The third stage is repeated with the birth of each puppy:

Stage One: She will appear restless and have anxiety. She will often separate herself from any attention. No food will interest her, not even her favorite treats. Take her out to go to the bathroom because it may be her last chance before delivery.

Stage Two: Her contractions will have begun. A green sac of fluid will protrude from her vulva. The puppies will start to appear either headfirst or rear first. Both are normal positions for dogs to be born in. Do not be alarmed to see them quiet and listless directly after birth. Leave her alone to stand or pace, as she needs to. The mother's instincts will cause her to open the sac, and lick the pups to clean them. She will sever the umbilical cord herself, but sometime you may interject if the natural process takes too long. The sac should always be removed immediately if it remained unbroken during the delivery. You may clean the puppies by rubbing them gently with a fresh cloth. Keep rubbing to stimulate their circulation. The mother's tongue or your rubs are what gets them to start squirming and crying.

If the mother struggles with a puppy that becomes lodged then you can try to assist the birth by grasping the puppy with a clean clothe. Firmly exert steady traction but do not jerk or pull suddenly. If you have any questions then call your vet right away.

Stage Three: Her resting period will last a few hours as her mild contractions fade away. If she delivered two pups closer together than her comfort level allowed, then her contractions will take longer to end.

When There Is An Emergency

A vet should always be called:

• If a puppy is lodged and unable to be removed.
• If your dog's labor occurs for 2 hours with no delivery.
• If there is a 4 hour window since the last pup was born and before more are delivered.
• If the delivery of pups doesn't commence after she showed the normal greenish-black discharge in the beginning of the birthing process.
• If her pregnancy has past 65 days.
• If she experiences any uncontrollable tremors, vomiting, or panting.

After The Puppies Arrive - Post-Natal Care

You can periodically examine the mother's nipples to make sure they are not infected, and even palpate them with a warm damp cloth to clean the area. Clip any puppies' nails that can irritate her skin.

She will pass soft stool for a few days due to the natural change in her new eating habit and from the residue she consumed while cleaning her pups.

Do not be alarmed if she eats her pup's feces in the beginning. That is a common thing for new mothers to do and will generally not hurt her. She will still have some remaining vaginal discharge with passing blood clots for a week. Any longer is not normal and should be addressed.

The new mother will take care of the puppies after birth so there is very little you need to do to assist them. She may even act territorial or aggressive initially. This behavior will slow down over time. They will start nursing 2-4 hours after birth. Never place a heating pad down for the puppies, but do realize that the low floor can be 10 degrees cooler than the rest of the room. The puppies need a comfortable room temperature. Their eyes open at 10-14 days old. Their first visit to the vet is at 3 weeks for routine de-worming and a health exam. They need to be weaned at 3-4 weeks of age.

During the weaning process, cut their milk intake down gradually by substituting the remainder of their diet with watered down puppy food and milk replacer. It is good if they start taking solid food, but if you are still having difficulty then never deprive the puppy of the mother's milk until he is able to eat solids for however long it takes.

Make sure to keep the puppies' bed area clean daily. Watch their feeding habits and weight gain to know which puppies need extra nutrients. Never feed human milk. Milk replacer is the only nutritional boost you should feed a small puppy. One or two runts in a litter are common. You may give them a separate feeding time to have an equal chance of achieving a full diet. Always rid their area of fleas because a flea infestation could drain the little pups of blood at a dangerous rate.

Once they reach 6-8 weeks old then they are at the age to be adopted out.

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Signs of Dog Pregnancy

Early signs of dog pregnancy include a decreased appetite, a sudden decrease in activity, nipple growth, and behavioral changes. The decreased appetite is similar to a human's morning sickness. If she feels exhausted more than normal, is far more affectionate than her regular behavior or just wants to be left alone, it is because of the hormonal changes triggered by her pregnancy. The tissue and glands underneath her nipples will swell to make room for her baby's milk. Her pregnancy will last between 60-64 days.
 
After the first few weeks her appetite will reappear and she will rapidly start gaining weight. Her abdomen will thicken and be firm to the touch. Smaller breeds look larger when pregnant than bigger breeds because they have less room to carry all of their puppies. You will be able to feel the puppy movement during the last week of her pregnancy because that is when the babies are getting into position for birth. Don't be surprised to see several drops of milk leaking from her nipples prior to the labor.

You should have prepared her with a whelping box by now. Any location comfortably designated for her nesting needs is good enough to be her whelping area. You can use old blankets or towels to make a soft environment for the babies to be born into. With no whelping box, your female may shred your couch, or invade your closet, to make her own nest.

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Dog Pregnancy Time Line - In Heat

To understand dog pregnancy, you should first get a general comprehension of how her body works. Your dog will experience a heat cycle before she is able to get pregnant. Veterinarians suggest that you do not breed her during her first heat period unless it happens after she is 1 year old. Any earlier would stunt the growth of your young female.

Most dogs go into heat 2 times a year, but it is common to skip one on occasion. While in heat she will be able to breed with more than the one male. She will be in heat for 3 weeks and her cycle will arrive every 6-9 months.

The first thing you will recognize when your dog goes into heat is a swollen vulva and bloody discharge. Eggs are not released yet in this phase of her heat cycle. Male dogs will be chemically drawn to her more than ever before. She still will not show a major interest in them, until this 6-11 day stage comes to an end.

In the second stage of heat she is actually fertile. Her posture will transform to a stance that invites procreation. Her bleeding will change from light pink to a golden sand color. Her vulva will remain swollen but is softer than before. The most common duration for this stage is 5-9 days but has been known to go on for nearly 20 days for different dogs. Once this stage is finished she will no longer be inviting male attention.

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Puppy House Training - Step by Step Process

This method is for when you are at home with your puppy, follow it as closely as you possibly can.
Equipment you'll need:
 
I prefer to use a good quality crate. Ensure that it is comfortable, safe and the right dimensions for your puppy. You can read a detailed crate training article I wrote here - puppy crate training

-or- 

You can also set up a small pen area with a comfortable dog bed, fresh water and a couple of chew toys (like a food stuffed kong toy). Do not put a doggy toilet in this pen area.

1. Choose the spot outside where you would like your puppy to go to the toilet (eliminate).
2. Keep your puppy in his/her crate, pen area or even tethered to a chair where you are working. Your puppy cannot have free run of the house at this early stage, he must be confined. Every 60 minutes take your puppy straight to the designated toilet area outside. Carry your puppy or walk out on leash.
3. When you reach the toilet area walk back and forth or circle around and around. At the same time say and repeat a cue word you would like to attach to the act of your dog eliminating. I use "hurry up" but just pick out a cue word or short phrase and stick with it. In your dogs mind you are building an association between the cue "hurry up!" and him emptying out. This is the first obedience training command you will teach your young pup.
4. If your pup does eliminate continue to repeat your cue word and the instant your dog finishes doing his business enthusiastically praise and reward him with a small tasty treat. Make it clear that you are very happy with him and that he is the best little puppy on the block! If after 3-4 minutes of circling around your puppy shows no signs of needing to eliminate take him back inside (put in crate or pen) and try again in about twenty minutes.
5. Immediately after a successful toilet trip outside you can allow your puppy some free play time (under supervision) in the house. Just spend some time enjoying the company of your puppy, then place him back in his crate or pen area.
6. Continue with this 60 minute puppy house training schedule, you'll be rewarded for sticking to it. Remember that you are trying to prevent any mistakes and at the same time establish good habits in your little puppy.
7. "What about overnight?" I hear you ask. Yes well, firstly do not feed your puppy close to bedtime and take away his water before you go to bed (don't forget to put it back first thing in the morning). You'll need to set your alarm clock to go off once and possibly twice throughout the night. This is an important step, just take your puppy out to the toilet area as usual and then hop back into bed. When your puppy is young it is physically impossible for him to hold on all night, but before long you will both be sleeping peacefully right through the night. 

In addition to your 60 minute schedule it is important to take your puppy outside after each meal time (most puppies go to the potty within 15 minutes of eating).

That's the puppy house training process, follow it consistently and I'm sure you'll experience pleasing results. When you are not home you will need to set up an area with comfortable bedding, water, toys and a toilet. Place the indoor doggy toilet at the opposite side to the bedding in your puppy's living area. When you arrive home remove the toilet area inside and follow the potty training method detailed above.

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How To Stop Puppy Biting Problems

There a lots of proven training methods to help correct your puppy's behavioral problems. Before I get into the specific techniques you can use to stop your puppy from biting, always keep these general dog behavior training rules in mind:

• Puppy socialization and bite inhibition training go hand in hand. 
• Never slap or hit your puppy in the face. This does not work! Your puppy will just think you are playing or could become afraid of you. This may even lead to some much bigger problems than simple puppy nipping.
• The general rule to stop puppy biting problems is to always encourage acceptable behavior and always discourage unacceptable behavior. To learn more about this fundamental rule of dog obedience training (including how to stop biting problems) visit Secrets of a Professional Dog Trainer.
• While you are trying to stop your puppies from biting, never play tug of war, wrestling or chase type games with them. This only encourages the biting and nipping. 
• Whichever method you choose to train your puppy the golden rule is be consistent. This means that you and anyone else who comes into contact with your puppy must enforce your chosen strategy every time your pup takes a nip.
• If you don't clearly communicate to your dog that the biting is unacceptable, he will not know he is doing anything wrong. It's up to you to show him what is acceptable behavior, don't just expect your puppy to know this! (You are really taking on the role of his littermates for this task).
• Another (extreme) reason puppies can bite is if they are trying to assert their dominance over you. If this is the case with your puppy, it must be stopped immediately. When you have a dominant puppy his biting will only be the beginning of many behavioral problems. To learn how to establish your position as the dominant one or leader in your owner-dog relationship click here.

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How To Stop A Puppy From Biting

Managing and controlling puppy biting problems can be a major challenge for us dog lovers. Puppy biting or nipping starts out as a bit of fun, but needs to be controlled quickly to avoid ongoing problems.

For most young puppies biting is a perfectly natural and essential phase to go through, especially when they are teething.

Puppies love to sink their sharp little fangs into just about anything during this teething stage, including the hands and feet of their owners. In some cases it's like you've brought a snappy alligator into your home, instead of the cuddly little puppy you had hoped for.

The good news is that most puppies can be trained to regulate and minimize the biting pretty easily. The sooner you start to educate your puppy in bite inhibition (having a soft mouth) the easier it will be - for all concerned.

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