Friday 16 November 2012

Pedigree Choice Cuts Variety Pack Food for Dogs by Pedigree

Pedigree Choice Cuts Variety Pack Food for DogsProduct Features

Flavor: Beef, Country Stew | Size: 13.2-Ounce Cans (Pack of 24)
  • Meaty chunks in a delicious gravy dogs love.
  • Optimal levels of oil and minerals to nourish skin & coat.
  • Highly digestible ingredients, so nutrients are easily absorbed.

Product Description

Flavor: Beef, Country Stew | Size: 13.2-Ounce Cans (Pack of 24)
Pedigree Combo Pack - Beef & Country Stew - 24 x 13.2 oz
Pedigree Choice Cuts in Gravy dinners provide optimal levels of oil and minerals to promote a healthy skin and coat. This combo pack includes beef and country stew flavors, for dinners that are not just nutritious but delicious too. 24-pack of 13.2 oz. cans.

Click Here to find out more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0029NN184?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B0029NN184&linkCode=xm2&tag=weilos08b-20

Newman's Own Organics Adult Dog Food Formula by Newman's Own

Newman's Own Organics Adult Dog Food FormulaImportant Information

Ingredients
Chicken, Organic Barley, Organic Oats, Organic Peas, Chicken Meal, Organic Sorghum, Organic Soybean Meal, Chicken Fat (Naturally Stabilized With Mixed Tocopherols [A Source of Vitamin E]), Organic Brown Rice, Organic Millet, Organic Rice, Organic Flax Seed, Dicalcium Phosphate, Organic Carrots, Chicken Liver, Sea Salt, Calcium Carbonate, Potassium Chloride, Dried Kelp, Parsley, Zinc Amino Acid Complex (Source of Chelated Zinc), Choline Chloride, Iron Amino Acid Complex (Source of Chelated Iron), Vitamin E Supplement, Rosemary Extract, Manganese Amino Acid Complex (Source of Chelated Manganese), Lecithin, Copper Amino Acid Complex (Source of Chelated Copper), Vitamin B12 Supplement, Vitamin A Acetate, Niacin, Calcium Pantothenate, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Ascorbic Acid (Source of Vitamin C), Riboflavin, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamin Hydrochloride, Biotin, Cobalt Proteinate (Source of Chelated Cobalt), Ethylenediamine Dihydriodide (Source of Iodine), Vitamin K Supplement, Sodium Selenite, Dehydrated Lactobacillus Acidophilus Fermentation Product, Dehydrated Bacillus Subtilis Fermentation Product, Dehydrated Bifidobacterium Thermophilus Fermentation Product, Dehydrated Bifidobacterium Pseudolongum Fermentation Product, Dehydrated Enterococcus Faecium Fermentation Product.

Product Description

Flavor: Adult | Size: 12.5-Pound Bag
Newman's Own Organics Adult Dog Food Chicken & Rice Formula is a new holistic formula based on the newest concept in animal nutrition.

Click Here to find out more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00139TT72?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B00139TT72&linkCode=xm2&tag=weilos08b-20

Diamond Naturals Dry Food for Adult Dog, Beef and Rice Formula, 40 Pound Bag by Diamond Pet Foods

Product Description

Beef protein provides optimal nutrition for dogs that prefer the taste of beef, or are sensitive to chicken or corn. Diamond Naturals Beef Meal & Rice Adult Formula Dry Dog Food provides guaranteed levels of vitamin E and selenium ensure that your dog is receiving optimum antioxidant nutrition, while Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids keep the skin and coat healthy and shiny.

Important Information

Ingredients
Beef meal, cracked pearled barley, whole grain brown rice, rice bran, chicken fat (preserved with mixed tocopherols), beet pulp, egg product, flaxseed, natural flavor, brewers dried yeast, potassium chloride, salt, choline chloride, vitamin E supplement, iron proteinate, zinc proteinate, copper proteinate, ferrous sulfate, zinc sulfate, copper sulfate, potassium iodide, thiamine mononitrate, manganese proteinate, manganous oxide, ascorbic acid, vitamin A supplement, biotin, calcium pantothenate, manganese sulfate, sodium selenite, pyridoxine hydrochloride (vitamin B6), vitamin B12 supplement, riboflavin, vitamin D supplement, folic acid.

Click Here to find out more: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000084F1I?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creativeASIN=B000084F1I&linkCode=xm2&tag=weilos08b-20

Sunday 4 November 2012

Puppy Foundation

Puppies!

Don't leave it too late! Puppies learn incredibly quickly and these early training sessions are designed to allow them to build confidence and social skills with adults, children and other dogs in a controlled environment as well as learning all the basics of training.

Our sessions are designed to be fun, relaxed and enjoyable for you, your family and your puppy.

Puppy Foundation
First time dog/puppy owner?  This 2 hour session is perfect if you are new to the canine world.  Information and knowledge is gained in this session along with practical exercises including:

- The importance of controlling your puppy with assertive, fun methods.
- Potty/toilet training
- Socialisation & basic behaviour
- Exercise and nutrition
- Hygiene, care and local regulations.
(ideal for 2-5 months)

Puppies!

Don't leave it too late! Puppies learn incredibly quickly and these early training sessions are designed to allow them to build confidence and social skills with adults, children and other dogs in a controlled environment as well as learning all the basics of training.

Our sessions are designed to be fun, relaxed and enjoyable for you, your family and your puppy.

Puppy Foundation
First time dog/puppy owner?  This 2 hour session is perfect if you are new to the canine world.  Information and knowledge is gained in this session along with practical exercises including:

- The importance of controlling your puppy with assertive, fun methods.
- Potty/toilet training
- Socialisation & basic behaviour
- Exercise and nutrition
- Hygiene, care and local regulations.
(ideal for 2-5 months)


Puppy Basics
The Puppy Basics course includes the foundation session (as above including a puppy behaviour assessment) and 4 basic obedience sessions. We cover all the basics that most owners want and need to establish basic control and obedience.

Puppy Golden
Had a dog before?  Want a refresher? What Homely Petz calls the Golden Rules of Puppyhood, the 4 crucial commands are to teach your puppy, sit, down, stay and come.  The Puppy Golden course teaches the four commands to you and your puppy.  These 4 commands are imperative to ensure your puppy is manageable, stays safe and starts to respect your presence in their world by following your simple instruction.

All the above sessions are an excellent opportunity for the whole family to get involved in the crucial early training and socialisation of your puppy. At the sessions we will work with you to assist you in understanding how to train your puppy, develop a great relationship and a solid foundation for future training.  All the family are welcome and lessons are well structured, positive and kind to your dog. As with all Homely Petz services they are done at your home and/or garden (weather permitting). 

All the above courses can be extended to further basic obedience once completed.

Kidz and Pupz
Children and puppies are a mix of excitement, un-controlled behaviour, fun, loads of energy and sometimes tears.  Children are still part of a puppy's world and instilling your child/ren to respect and nurture a puppy as well as command mutual respect is imperative to ensure a harmonious home.  Our child-orientated puppy behaviour plan is a great way to introduce your children to the basic behaviours of a puppy.  We also incorporate the Be A Tree dog bite prevention programme into the sessions.  Kidz and Pupz are suitable for children aged 6-12 years of age with parental supervision at all sessions.

Saturday 3 November 2012

How To Train A Puppy - The Essential Steps

puppy training1. Puppy House Training
Potty training causes many puppy owners a world of pain. It doesn't have to be so difficult, I've had lots of success with this step-by-step outdoor puppy house training method.
2. Puppy Housebreaking - The Indoor Potty
Follow this method to successfully housebreak your puppy indoors. This new improved method takes over from puppy paper training and dog litterbox training.
3. Puppy Crate Training
The crate is an invaluable training tool for all puppy owners. It's a great way to establish good habits in your puppy and prevent undesirable and destructive ones. The crate is never a tool for punishment!
4. Puppy Socialization
Puppy socialization is a crucial period for all puppies. It is the time where you build a close bond with your puppy and expose him to all the world has to offer. Puppy training classes are an important element when socializing your puppy.
5. Stop Excessive Barking
Excessive barking is a huge problem but one that can be avoided with these training techniques.
6. Separation Anxiety In Dogs
Separation anxiety affects a huge percentage of dogs and is the cause for many other behavioral problems. Follow these tips to stop your puppy from developing separation anxiety.
7. Stop Puppy Biting/Mouthing
Puppy biting, nipping and mouthing is a perfectly natural stage for your dog to go through. You can manage the problem with these puppy mouthing tips.
8. Puppy Leash Training
Training your puppy to walk nicely on a loose leash is important for safety reasons and also for the enjoyment of your walks together. Excellent for big strong dogs like Labradors and Labradoodles!
9. Obedience Training For Puppies
Start you puppy on these basic obedience lessons as soon as you can. Practice the sit, down, stay and more. These commands provide the foundation for more advanced commands later on.
10. Correcting Puppy Behavioral Problems
Your puppy is bound to display at least one type of problem behavior. Discover the best way to stop the undesirable behavior and how to get your puppy back on the right track.
11. Puppy Clicker Training
Clicker training is a very effective and gentle way to shape the behavior of your puppy. My dogs all love and respond brilliantly to clicker training techniques.
12. How To Feed Your Puppy
What is the best puppy food for your young dog? - discover the best way to provide wholesome, well balanced puppy nutrition. I suggest setting up a regular schedule with Petflow home delivery dog food.
13. How To Choose A Great Dog Training School
Puppy kindergarten and obedience training school are a great way to socialize and train your young puppy. Keep these tips in mind when choosing your dog training school or dog trainer.
14. Choosing Your Perfect Dog Breed
Discover how to choose a dog breed that best suits you and your personal circumstances. Selecting a suitable dog breed is a crucial first step which deserves some time and research.


Thursday 1 November 2012

Puppy Training Tips - Jumping


As a little bundle of fur, there's not a lot of harm that your puppy can do to you when he jumps up on you in excitement as soon as you walk in the door. A year from now, however it could be a different story altogether.

Jumping, in a puppy, no matter what the breed, is never a good habit.  Even if your dog is a small sized breed that will probably not be able to injure you the way, say a Labrador or German Shepherd jumping on you could, he could still injure a child.  Not to mention that he can dirty your clothes and mess up your hair, when you're all ready to go out.  Besides, your puppy can actually lose balance and fall over, injuring himself if you don't break this habit.

The key to breaking your pup's jumping habit is to show him you don't approve. Unfortunately, this is easier said than done! It's hard not to enjoy the attention, and not feel flattered when your pup is yelping and jumping excitedly all over you! There aren't too many humans who would get that excited when you walk in the door! 

Remember, every time you smile, and pat him as he is jumping, you only establish his jumping actions  as desirable and acceptable behavior.  You might be saying "No, "no" but all he hears is praise for his jumping. 

To nip this habit in the bud, ignore your pup as soon as he begins the jumping action. Turn right around, and refuse to look at him. It can be hard to do, but think of it this way. You're preparing your pup to grow into a healthy and well adjusted dog that's completely accepted in society. In short, you're doing it for his own good.

Don't shout at him as he is jumping - he doesn't understand what you're saying. All he understands is that you are reacting to him and playing with him.  Shouting also doesn't help - again, he assumes you're playing with him.

Reward him when he stops jumping on you by offering him a treat or praising him.  Don't reward him when he's in the jumping act - this is extremely important. No patting, no words, just ignore him.  Eventually, he will understand that being on all fours equals "reward" while standing on his hind legs equals "punishment."

Use the "sit" and "stay" commands to get him to stop the jumping action. He can't jump if he is sitting.  This will take practice.  Try going out the back door and entering the house again, and practice curbing his jumping tendencies.  Of course, the "sit-stay" method will work only if these commands have been firmly established in your pup.

If you find he's jumping on guests, practice the "sit-stay" method with them.  Have them enter the house again (you might want to try this only with your closest friends) and practice getting him to sit instead of jump. 

It will take some practice, but if you keep at it, you'll soon see your pup preferring to stay grounded on all fours, instead of flailing in the air as you walk in!



Puppy Proofing Your Home

The process of preparing your house for your new bundle of joy will begin before he arrives.  Take time to make your house a safe and comfortable environment for your little pup. Remember, unlike a newborn baby, your pup will be old enough to walk around and explore on his own. Even if you confine him to a crate, there will be times when he's allowed to roam the house and yard free.

Puppy Proofing Inside the  House
Before you bring your new pup home, take a look at your house through his eyes.  Get down on your hands and knees, and begin looking at your house the way a pup would. What would he find interesting enough to chew or put in his mouth? Which corners would he be attracted to? If you have cabinets in your house with loosely hinged doors, would he be able to accidentally enter one and lock himself in? Are there electrical switches or plugs installed at floor level?  

Electrical cords dangling temptingly within reach of your pup can be too alluring to ignore.  Tuck these away, and duct tape electrical switch outlets that are at his level.

Make sure cabinet doors have locks, or purchase cabinet locks for these. Most of the time house cleaners, solvents, bleach and other potentially dangerous chemicals are stored in these cabinets, and these can prove a poison hazard to your puppy.

Your puppy might have difficulty navigating your stairs. Purchase baby gates and use these to seal off the staircase.

Puppies and shoes have an unspoken bond between them.  You might not know it, but your puppy could swallow shoelaces as he chews on your shoes. Keep your shoes in a shoe rack with doors.

Drawstrings hanging from draperies can choke your puppy if he manages to get it tangled around his neck.

Until your pup is house trained, keep all knick knacks, ash trays, curios and crystal out of his reach.

Remove your children's toys from the floor, small toys like cars or blocks can be swallowed, and can lead to perforation of the abdomen.

Keep you garbage can closed with a lid at all times .  Pups are notoriously fond of rummaging in garbage, even when there's good fresh food available at home.  It's a part of the wild instinct that remains in them and there isn't a lot you can do to curb this urge.  But you can keep them away from the sources of decaying organic matter.   Eating rotting food can cause food poisoning and other serious illnesses.

Keep your bathroom door latched at all times from the outside when not in use.

Keep your basements off limits for your puppy.  The basement or garage is home to a lot of junk and is full of potentially harmful things that can harm your pet.

Keep your children's pencils, erasers, crayons and other stationery off limits by putting these in a large bin, and placing on a table so he can't reach it.

Keep your cosmetics and make up off your dressing table, and safely tucked away in drawers and locked cabinets.

Keep medicines away from doggy level.  Pills, bottles and strips - make sure all are safely locked away in cabinets.

Puppy Proofing Outside the House

If your garden is full of exotic plants, it's probably best if you keep it off limits to your pup.  Consult your vet about the types of plants that could cause him harm.  Plants like cactus and mushroom are potentially dangerous for a pup.

If you use fertilizers or pest repellents on your lawn or in your garden, leave a gap of 48 hours before you allow your pet access to the area.

Make sure your fence is secure especially near the ground, to prevent the possibility of your pup sneaking out through to the other side.

Keep your pet away from your garage - there are too many old paint cans and tools there for it be safe for him.

Remember, a puppy is attracted to most of the same things a toddler or a crawling baby is. Use this logic to figure out what other potential dangers could be lurking in your home and garden.

Housetraining Your Puppy

If you've just become the owner of a brand new pup, the first item on your agenda is, no doubt, house training.  Pups need to eliminate as many as as six times a day, and the sooner you begin the house training process, the less damage your carpets and furnishings will suffer!  Take heart, though. House training a puppy is easier than house training an adult dog. Prepare to invest some amount of time and effort into house training your puppy.  If you can't spare time for house training, you should seriously reconsider your decision to get a dog.  House  training will require conditioning techniques, and will call for some effort on your part. If your pup grows into adulthood without being trained, you're relegating him to a life chained in your backyard, which is unfair to the dog.

The best training tool to begin the house training process is a crate.  Get your dog a small wire mesh crate that is the perfect size for your little pet.  Make sure that the crate is big enough to accommodate increases in size over the next few weeks, and small enough that he doesn't find a small corner of the crate to relieve himself in.

Initially, keep your dog in the crate for short periods of time, taking him out to the yard at regular intervals to get him to eliminate.  If he does, lavish him with praise and giver him a reward.  if he doesn't, take him back to the crate.  Continue with this till you can see a pattern emerging.  Over a period of days, your dog's toilet schedule will become clear. Being confined to the crate will help your dog learn to retain his urine and feces for longer periods of time.

Don't keep him confined for too long, however.  If he relieves himself in the crate, it might set your training back by a few weeks. This is the part where you will need to invest time in - removing him from his crate at regular intervals, and taking him to the yard.

Always remember to reward any elimination. Good dog training involves not punishing any accident, however. All dogs have accidents along the way, and swatting his head with a newspaper or rubbing his nose in his own mess only makes your dog frightened to eliminate in your presence, which brings you back to square one, as far as potty training is concerned. 

When there is an accident, clean it up, and make a note of the time.  Have a toilet schedule in which you can write down the times in the days during which your dog urinated or defecated, so you'll have a better idea of what to expect.

Expect house training to continue over a period of time. This can be one of the hardest things to teach a dog, and a little patience and perseverance will go a long way.

Continue house training even at night.  Your puppy has a smaller bladder and bowels, and will need to eliminate more often than an adult dog.  Make a midnight potty run with your dog to establish elimination habits at night.

When there are accidents, show your disapproval immediately.  Dogs don't have long term memory when it comes to their daily routine. When they eliminate inside the house, they forget what they have done almost immediately.  So, if you find a mess in the house, and go looking for him to reproach him 10 minutes after he's actually done the deed, all angry at him and flustered, he has no idea what you're  mad about because he just does not remember.  Your dog doesn't have accidents to annoy you - on the contrary, dogs exist to make their owners happy.  As an owner, its your responsibility to train your dog to behave the way you want him to. He'll be more than happy to oblige, if you just teach him right. 

Another disadvantage of showing disapproval late is you risk establishing whatever behavior he was engaged in at that exact moment as undesirable. If he was drinking water from his bowl, and you barge in angry at his accident, he connects your disapproval to his drinking water. So, now he's completely clueless about what you want!

When your dog is out of the crate, watch out for tell tale signs of potty time.  A dog who needs to urinate will walk round and round in circles, sniffing. When he exhibits this kind of behavior, stop whatever you're doing and take him outside.
 

Responsible Dog Ownership

Owning a dog is a serious responsibility, one that should not be taken lightly.  But what exactly does being a responsible dog owner mean?  Well, when broken down, it is easy, but it does involve a few different elements.

First of all, you’ve got to make sure that your dog does not become a nuisance to others.  Your dog shouldn’t be out roaming the streets, destroying property, chasing animals or children, leaving excrement in the park, barking incessantly, etc.   In sum, it really comes down to proper control of your dog, good dog training, cleaning up after your good friend, and giving him or her the proper attention and exercise that is needed.  Here are some golden rules for owning a dog.

There are many reasons people will get a dog, and it is difficult to say the one “right” reason to do so.  But, to put it simply dogs are great companions and should be considered part of the family.  They serve a lot of different purposes such as an alarm, a hunting companion, an exercise partner, a playmate, a show dog, etc.; but, these should all be added bonuses to the one key trait—a great addition to the family.

You should be committed to properly training and socializing during the critical time early in his life.  You might consider a dog obedience training school if you need help.  You should become involved in activities that both you and your dog find enjoyable such as agility training, fetch, Frisbee, running, swimming or learning tricks.  You should protect him from any harm, instill good doggy manners and teach him what is right from wrong. 

Most importantly, you will commit your dog a lifelong companion that you will love and care for, provide good nutrition and hygiene, regularly exercise, provide mental stimulation, regular check-ups and vaccinations and lots of love and attention.

 

Dog Obedience Training Advice

Obedience training is an important part of responsible dog ownership.  Obedience training techniques lay the foundation for a well behaved and well adjusted dog, who has no trouble participating in family life at home, and is equally at ease in the presence of others.

The lack of proper obedience training can be traced to the number of dog attacks that occur in the UK.  A dog that hasn't been trained to obey his master's commands is a nuisance to society, and sooner or later, ends up as a social outcast.  He is unsafe to have around children, even those in your own home. He is a nuisance to neighbors, a threat to people in the street, and a danger to other dogs that he runs into at the park. 

The Importance of Dog Obedience Training

Dogs have a pack mentality - they follow a leader.  In your relationship with your dog, you must always be the one he looks up to as "the leader."  Love your dog and shower him with affection, but never lose sight of the fact that you are the master. This is where many dog training techniques go wrong.  It's very important for a dog to recognize the status of your relationship. 

A dog who has been trained to obey his master has no problem when his master calls him to "stop."  On the other hand, if obedience training is ignored, it's likely that your dog will have a skewed up vision of his life.  He may be confused about his relationship with you. Confusion isn't a good thing for a dog. In fact, dogs like having clearly marked boundaries, and everything spelled out clearly in black and white. A lack of obedience training opens you both to the possibility of a tension filled power struggle.  This attempt to dominate you is a dangerous and undesirable trait in a dog, and must be eliminated as soon as possible, through obedience training.

Obedience training helps you to be aware of your dog at all times.  This means that when you're out and about, you're certain of what your dog will do in a given situation. It also means that your dog is always aware of the sort of behavior that's expected of him.  If your dog hasn't been trained to respond to your commands and obey them, you expose him and others to danger when you go out with him.  In fact, you expose your own family to danger because you can never be one hundred percent sure of how he will react to a situation or a person. 

A dog that has been trained to obey through obedience training techniques is more confident and self assured.  You will be more confident having him in the house, and out in the company of others. 

Obedience training has has been found to be very stimulating to a dog mentally, and leads to a happier and well adjusted dog all round.

Here are some ways to increase the effectiveness of your dog obedience training.

  • Use positive reinforcement for desirable behaviors. 
  • When the behavior is undesirable, make use of proper corrective methods. 
  • Make sure you don't ignore any kind of behavior, whether desirable or undesirable.
  • It causes confusion if you don't follow a sign of progress with a reward or words of praise, or if you ignore undesirable behaviors like chewing. 
  • Never correct him if he hasn't done anyhting wrong at that exact moment. This is crucial.
  • Timing is of the utmost importance in dog training. Don't wait to correct him; ensure he makes the connection between his bad behavior and your correction immediately.
  • Make use of repetition to establish proper learning. 
  • Keep training short and simple. A few minutes a day is quite sufficient.
  • Start with simple commands, and once these have been firmly established, progress to more advanced lessons.
  • Make obedience training a daily part of your life. Commands like "sit" and "heel" can be used in everyday situations.
  • Be consistent with the commands you use, and make sure each member of your family is also aware of this. You don't want to end up with a dog that's totally confused because every one in the  house has their own methods of training.
  • Ideally, you should be the one training your dog, because you're the one living with him. When you're the one training him, he learns to recognize you as the leader of his pack, someone to be obeyed at all times.
Having a pet dog is not only about feeding him a healthy diet, exercising him and taking care of his other basic needs.  A dog needs to be mentally challenged, and trained to know his place in the world. Obedience training is the only way you can accomplish this..

Dog Training Tips

Be Positive --  It is necessary to use positive reinforcement when you train your dog or puppy by offering some dog treats and a lot of praise if he performs something correctly.  During the initial training sessions you can offer both verbal praise as well as treats. Remember, this is fun!

Firm and Friendly --  When you give commands such as heel and come, you want to use a happy, friendly voice.  On the other hand, you will want a lower, firmer voice for sit, down, and stay. 

Start Young…but not too early   -  The ideal time to start training begins at six to eight weeks, maybe even earlier depending on the puppy.  But remember, it’s never too late to teach a dog a new trick.

Don’t Rub His Nose in It -  Though it may be tempting to rub your dog’s nose in his accident or swat him with a rolled up newspaper.  Punishing your dog is not really a desired form of dog training.  The only thing this will do in the end is teach your dog a serious problem--to become afraid of you. Do you think your dog should come over as you call if he thinks you are simply going to whack him or stick his nose into the carpet?

Be Patient  - Patience is key when you work with your dog or puppy.  If you feel like you’re at the end of your leash before you’ve even started, don’t attempt to train your dog. Your dog is incredibly smart and will pick up on your emotions.  Remember, this is fun!

Keep it Short  -  Fifteen minutes or so is about the right time for learning simple commands, so focus on a single command a session and end it on a positive note. If your dog or pup has successfully done the command several times in a row remember to lavish him with praise. After the dog training session, spend some time playing. He will associate time with you as positive and anticipate his training. 

No Distractions -  Try to pick a quiet spot free of distractions when training your dog to do tricks or commands.  A secluded back yard or an inside room works best. If there are other pets in the family, put them up so they won’t interfere with training.

And Remember, This is Fun!  - Dog training, of course, ought to be a pleasant time for you and Fido. The time can be used to bond closely with your dog and learn each other’s personalities.  When you do this, you will not only have a well-trained dog or puppy, but a longtime, loyal companion and friend.

Using The Right Dog Training Technique

Imagine being able to take your dog with you, anywhere you go… and know that he’ll listen and obey! Imagine being able to take him to a picnic and tell him to lay down… even if there are 30 children running around, dropping pieces of hot dogs and burgers. 
 
Yet your dog is so well trained that he just lays there with a lazy smile on his face! Or perhaps you decide to take your dog with you to pick up some bagels for a Sunday brunch. Instead of leaving Fido in the car, you take him with you. As you walk into the store, you motion for your dog to lay down outside, next to the entrance… and he actually stays there until you return!!!

(I did this with a German Shepherd I owned named, “Buck.” While I was inside, another dog trainer in my area happened to also be in the bagel shop. Not realizing I was a professional dog trainer, he showed his cards and walked up to me, inquiring how I was able to get my dog to stay down for so long! He was literally amazed, and thought that it couldn’t be the training, but rather just that the dog had a ‘lazy temperament’ to be able to stay there without his master repeating, “stay, stay, stay” at his side! — And he was supposed to be a professional trainer!)

Maybe you’d like to be able to walk with your dog to the local dry cleaner’s… and not have to juggle your dog’s leash and your freshly cleaned shirts!

Yesterday, I took Forbes (my Bullmastiff/Pit Bull mix) past the grocery store to the Dry Cleaners in the local mini-mall. Kids on bikes rode by and commented on what a “cool” dog he was, because he stayed right by my side! And the funny thing is… people think it’s the dog! They think that Forbes must be a “really smart dog,” or “really laid back” — which he is… but that’s not the point.

The point is that when you’re using the right techniques… and you’ve committed yourself to using these techniques and practicing with your dog on a regular basis, you can get seemingly miraculous results. Nobody seems to care that when I first rescued Forbes from the Animal Shelter, he was both extremely dog aggressive and also frighteningly hostile towards anything that moved past him quickly. (Such as kids on bikes, skateboards, and even joggers!)

But now he lazily holds a down-stay while kids on scooters shoot past him. He heels nicely in position as bikers whiz by. And people still think that it must be the dog. I really should have taken video tape of him to show a ‘before and after’ so that you could see what a difference using the right dog obedience training techniques can make. You can do this with your dog. Just remember to practice dilligently and USE the techniques you’re learning from this book!

-Adam

How to Train A Dog to Drop the Tennis Ball

Kvac writes: First, let me say your books have been very helpful to me and my dogs!!!! I would like your help on a specific problem, although my dog has made great strides in the down position and in retrieving he has for some reason got a problem with wanting to release his ball once he is back tome and I mean he will not let go for anything!
#1: Tell him to drop it, then give him a tug on the leash. When he drops the ball, immediately kick it and let him chase it. Once the dog learns that you’re just going to throw it again, he will realize that the faster he drops it, the faster he gets to chase it again.

#2: If the dog won’t drop it when you correct him, then put a flat collar on him and then lift him straight up. The dog’s head will look straight toward the groun and he will eventually drop the ball, at which point, you should immediately kick the ball and let him chase it again. NEVER ASK THE DOG TO DROP THE BALL AND THEN PUT IT AWAY. When it’s time to finish the game, fake a throw and then put the ball in your pocket and call the dog to go inside and then feed him dinner.

#3: If you still can’t get the ball out of the dog’s mouth, then just take the ball in your left hand and beng the dog’s lips around his teeth with your right hand. As soon as the dog releases the ball, you guessed it! Throw it, immediately and let him go chase it. Here’s the trick: You need perfect timing. As soon as the dog releases the ball (and I mean, that VERY SECOND) you should kick the ball off and let him chase it.

The Truth About Training A Dog At The Dog Park

This idea of taking your dog to a dog park is not a good one. Why? 
 
Because:

#1) It’s not natural for the dog. We’re not talking about human children who need to be socialized with other kids throughout their infancy. Dogs learn dominant and submissive behavior and how to interact with other dogs from 6 to 8 weeks of age. This two week period is called a critical stage, and a small amount of exposure will have a lasting effect on your dog’s personality.

When you throw your dog in with all kinds of other dogs (from other packs) the first thing they need to do is establish who’s dominant and who’s submissive. And yes, they’ll tussle to do this, often. If you have two really dominant dogs, they may even fight to the death. Or if another dog gets flushed too quickly, he’ll get defensive. And then you have a dog fight on your hands, with hundreds of dogs and owners yelling and running around screaming…. and none of the dogs are trained… and none of the dogs are on leash… and all of the owners don’t know anything about dog handling (esp. a fight) but think they know everything. Trust me… it’s a bad situation you need to avoid.

#2) Health: They let anyone into those dog parks. And believe you me, you get the types who will find a dog in an alley and before giving it shots (rabies, parvo, etc..) … they think they’re doing a great thing by bringing the dog to the dog park where he can cough, lick and breathe on your dog.

#3) Temperament: Nobody does a temperament test on these dogs before letting them into the park. Duh! You’re playing with fire.

So you can see, there are a lot of risks. And just because the dog gets into a dominance scuffle, does not mean that he’s a dog fighter. But everyone else there will think so!  But that’s a different issue for another article.

I will use the dog park on rare occasions if I’m at the point in training where I need an extreme amount of distractions, for certain higher-level dogs.  But even then, only for a short period of time and not to just let the dog “hang out” with other dogs and owners.  Usually, it’s just not worth the hassles.

Teach Your Dog Obedience Commands, In This Order

Brandee N writes: I bought your book about two weeks ago. Finally, someone has written a dog training book that makes sense. Good Job…bet it took a lot of time to put all of it together, huh?
 
The reason I am writing to you is because I am confused about some things that deal with teaching the down/stay and sit/stay. Tell me if this sounds like I have it right:

First, teach her (the dog) how to do the command doing repetitions and placing her in the correct position immediately after saying the command. Then, working up to the point you can just stand up straight and have her respond.

Next, work up distance and time then add distractions and practice in different places.

Finally, go to the long line and then the tab to get reliability off-leash.

[Adam:] Actually, you should start proofing for distractions first, then move to greater distances& but only progress to greater distances with the long line. Without the long line, guess what might happen?
[She continues:] This is how I understand the process from what I have read in your book.

Should I move on to the next step once my dog performs the command quickly and correctly for one training session or keep drilling her without adding something new?

[Adam:] It’s going to take much more than one training session. When the dog learns something, it’s situational. So you’re going to have to work the same exercise& at the same point in the program& in several different locations before you’re ready to move onto the next step.

[She continues:] During proofing, is it okay to add distractions during the dogs learning phase after the dog does the command for me a couple of times correctly without being corrected?

[Adam:] You’re confusing two things. Is the dog in the learning phase, or is he in the proofing phase? The two are very distinct. Do not move onto one phase until you’ve mastered the other.

Here is the order: Learning phase– reinforcement phase– proofing phase.

[She continues:] How long does it take the “average” dog to be taught a new command and proofed in it?
[Adam:] This is impossible to answer. It depends upon the trainer, the dog, the exercise, the setting, how frequently the dog is worked, etc& You let the dog tell you when it’s time. This is why reading your dog is so important. It takes as long as it takes.

[She continues:] Do you teach the down/stay and sit/stay in one session or separately?

[Adam:] Separately.

[She continues:] In what order should I teach my dog new commands?

[Adam:] Walk on a loose leash, boundary and perimeter training, sit-stay, down-stay, heel, then come. The order that you teach commands is not written in stone, but I find that doing it this way allows for a very natural flow and learning progression.

[She continues:] Sorry my letter is so long…any instruction you can give me is greatly appreciated…oh, by the way I really like the book. Thank you

Sincerely,
Brandee N

How To Get Fast Dog Training Results

Want to know the fastest way to start getting dog obedience result?

Actually, it’s the very same secret you need to know to have a successful relationship with your spouse, your kids, your parents and your friends.

Have I got your attention?

Are you wondering:  What one thing could it be?  What one “element” could possibly be so powerful that it can completely change my relationship with my dog, my spouse, my children, and my parents and friends?

Aretha Franklin knew the answer: R-E-S-P-E-C-T.

Without respect, you can’t even begin to expect that your dog will listen to you, anywhere you go.
Forget about fancy techniques and tricks to get your dog to obey.

Without respect, your dog will do none of it.  (And the same for your spouse, you kids, etc…)

Respect is something that you cannot simply “ask” for.  It must be demanded.  It is an invisible aspect that other animals (including humans) immediately sense.  However, when dealing with other animals that have a tendency to be more dominant, sometimes they will test you to see if you really deserve the R-E-S-P-E-C-T.
 
But let’s stick with dogs for now.  So, how do dogs do this?
There are literally hundreds of ways:
  • Reading your body language and how you carry yourself.
  • By seeing if you give a command once, and then make your dog do it
    immediately, if they don’t instantly respond.
  • By correcting disrespectful and rude behavior when it happens…
    and not rewarding it, ignoring it, or letting it fester.
  • By being the one who goes first, and is the first to reach for
    the prize.  Remember: the lead dog always gets the best of
    everything.  As a good leader, he may choose to share it with his
    pack, but he is always the one who makes that decision.  If another
    dog sees him not being the decision maker, then the other dogs will
    lose its respect.
  • Etc., etc, etc…

HITTING, SPANKING, SMACKING, SLAPPING

In dog training (or in ANY interaction with ANY species, for that matter!), there is no room for direct angry contact of any human body part (e.g. hand, foot) to any part of the dog’s body. Of course, there IS room for kind contact of any kind: petting, patting, stroking, etc.

Hitting does not teach a dog anything. Spanking only vents YOUR anger, YOUR frustration. Slapping only teaches a dog to shy away from your hand (become hand-shy). Smacking can result in your dog snapping back at you! What other recourse does he have? He can’t tell you or even ask you to stop. He can’t push your hand or foot away. A dog’s mouth is his hand, and he will use it similarly.

TONE OF VOICE (see my related article) can accomplish SO much! A correct tone of voice can stop a dog in his tracks. Your tone of voice can quickly tell your dog that you are displeased. A dog that respects your leadership will understand. Your tone of voice is what will get your dog to listen, learn and pay attention to you.

I spank my dogs all the time – but I spank them when I tell them I love them! I grab their little butts and I give them a few swats as they turn around and try to kiss me, wagging their tails the entire time.

I could not hit my dogs hard enough to hurt them “to teach them a lesson”. Their coats buffer blows just as it keeps most bites from causing wounds.

If I hit my dog, it is to get their attention (“HEY!”) in an urgent situation. I make sure my voice carries more weight than my touch, and I praise when they turn to look at me. My swift swat is, at this point, punctuation to my words – kind of like what a collar and leash does. And because I RARELY swat my dogs, they have learned I mean business when this happens. “HEY! Get your face out of the garbage!” “HEY! You WAIT for me!” “HEY! Leave it!”


Pam Young, LVT CDBC CPDT  
Dog Gone Good LLC
Dog Behavior Consultant
Personal Dog Trainer

RE-NAMING A DOG

Puppies in a litter are often named by the breeder reflecting a physical attribute the pup has (“Big Boy”, “Socks”, “Brownie”), or because of a specific collar color the breeder has put on them (in the case of dogs looking the same, like Golden Retrievers).

Rescue dogs either come with the name they had at their previous home (if known), or a name given to them by the shelter or rescuer.

There is no reason not to re-name a rescue dog or new puppy that you adopt into your home. If you use that name in a positive manner and always associated with good things, the dog will quickly learn to understand that name means HIM!

I own 2 rescue dogs. Both came from not-so-bad situations. Mickey lost his Dad to cancer, and Remington was too much attitude for his previous owner. These dogs have their original, given name. I chose to keep their names because they never had any terrible experiences associated with their name.

I fostered a Border Collie rescue for Great Lakes Border Collie Rescue (see their website: 

http://www.greatlakesbcrescue.org/ ) who was kept in a corn crib for a year and had MUCH baggage come with him into rescue. The INSTANT he left his previous owner’s hand he got a new name, Kip, and will never hear his name from his previous life again. He got his new name to not only symbolize a new life for him, but also to shed all the bad things associated with his previous name.

Getting your dog to understand his new name is easy: his name is used when training and reinforcing commands, and is also used when giving treats (“Good Kip!” treat “What a good boy, Kip!” treat). The new name is ALWAYS used in a positive manner.
Pam Young, LVT CDBC CPDT  
Dog Gone Good LLC
Dog Behavior Consultant
Personal Dog Trainer

CHECKLIST FOR WELL-ADJUSTED, WELL-BEHAVED DOGS

  • Able to walk on a loose leash without pulling
  • Able to greet friends and strangers without jumping or shying away
  • Able to walk without chasing bicycles, children, cars, squirrels, rabbits, balls, other dogs, etc
  • Can quiet barking on command
  • Understands nipping and mouthing is not allowed
  • Able to be left alone at home without destruction, barking or anxiety
  • Able to play, chew and relax without constant interaction with owner
  • Able to relinquish food, toys or inappropriate objects at owner's bidding
  • Can be groomed or handled without complaint
  • Is reliable with housebreaking
  • Veterinarian or groomer can handle dog without a problem
  • Does not rush through doorways ahead of owner
  • Interacts appropriately with children
  • Able to tolerate accidental nudging or grabbing (even when asleep) without snapping
  • Will move location - even if on furniture or bed - when directed without growling or snapping
  • Respects leadership of owner
  • Tolerates at least, and my play or interact appropriately with other dogs

Pam Young, LVT CDBC CPDT  
Dog Gone Good LLC
Dog Behavior Consultant
Personal Dog Trainer

FUN Things You Can Teach Your Dog

When you are looking to interact with your dog in other ways rather than the typical walks and obedience work, you can teach her thinking games.  Often, if you identify what your dog already has an aptitude for, you can develop on that.  Does she use her eyes or her nose more?  Below are some ideas to get you started:
  • Names of family members/pets: "Where's ________?  Go find ________!"
  • Find it - teach a "sit" and "wait" while you go hide the item, then come back and release with, "OK!  Go Find _____!"  Start with the item close - even in the same room, and help her.
  • Find a person - teach a "sit" and "wait" while someone hides, and release with, "OK!  Go find ______!"  Or, if the person you want your dog to find is YOU, then, after you have hidden, call your dog!  (your dog may need help in "waiting", at first, with another person holding her.
  • Hide & Seek  (a particular favorite around my house is ROAR!)
  • Names for toys
  • Catch - start with popcorn first, because it is light
  • Frisbee - start with dog close, first
  • Pick up your toys (and put them away!)
  • "Magic" tricks
    - treat under cup, 3 cups to choose from
    - find treat under towel or rug (try hiding a toy or treat under a large towel, old blanket or rug - first show your dog where you
      are putting it, then cover it, and tell her to "find it"!
    - pick hand treat or toy is in
  • Walk between legs while you are walking (weaving in and out) - just one of the many Freestyle moves you can teach your dog!
  • Jump through a hula-hoop
  • Tricks:  gimme 5 (gimme change, too!), roll over, sit up, play dead ("bang!"), treat on nose, speak, high 5 -- use your imagination!
  • Two boxes on their sides - take a treat or food, and with your dog sitting facing the box bottoms (the box opening is out of the dog's sight) show the dog the item and put it into one of the box openings.  Release your dog ("OK!") and tell him to "find it!"
  • There are all kinds of puzzle toys on the market - ones that dispense food or treats, and some that can be taken apart
  • "Touch" - teach touch with his nose. "Touch" the palm of my hand, "touch" the tip of a stick - this is the start of "target training".
  • You can make obstacles and create an "agility" course with things found around most homes: broomstick on the rungs of 2 chairs to create a jump, weave in and out of dowels stuck in the ground (about 18" apart) or ski poles, pause "box" with an old rug, jump through an old tire (the original agility tire jump!), kids' play tunnels can be found at toy stores...

Stop Puppy Chewing By Suzanne

So you want to stop puppy chewing? Cewing can be a huge source of frustration – not to mention a major expense – for many puppy owners.  A bit like having babies, nothing can quite prepare you for the trail of destruction something so small can create in your once well-ordered and tidy home.

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve heard an exasperated puppy owner complaining: “But I’ve given him a whole bunch of chew toys of his own – I don’t understand why he had to go and chew up my sofa/best rug/cashmere sweater/cellphone etc!”

And herein lies the crux of the issue. Most puppy owners don’t actually understand the reasons for puppy chewing, or that some of this undesirable behaviour might actually be caused directly by their own behaviour towards their puppy.

There are two main reasons for problem puppy chewing:
1. Teething
Puppies are born with needle-sharp ‘baby’ teeth and, just like babies, they use their mouths as one of the main ways to explore the world around them. They also have a biological need to strenghen their under-developed jaw muscles so that by the time they reach adulthood they are capable of ripping, tearing and chewing meat and bones. In the wild, strong jaws and teeth could mean the difference between death and survival.

Puppies chew, then, because it is part of their learning and development. But, in addition, puppies go through two teething periods when their gums are sore and chewing provides soothing  relief. The first period comes at about 18 weeks when the puppy loses its sharp baby teeth and grows its adult teeth. And the second usually occurs somewhere between six and twelve months when the new adult teeth settle into the jaw bone. You can expect puppy chewing to be more intense during these teething periods.

2. Anxiety
In addition to the bilogical need for puppy chewing, many puppies are destructive as a result of anxiety and, often, this is unwittingly caused as a direct result of our human behaviour and interaction with them.

Dogs are incredibly social ‘pack’ animals who need company and also need to understand their status within the human pack. Puppies that are left home alone for long periods during the day will often get anxious and, much in the same way as we might light a cigarette or have a drink to calm our nerves, chewing is a naturally calming activity for puppies.

The same applies to puppies who have inadvertently been given the position of ‘top dog’ in the human household. Weighed down with the responsibility of looking after the household occupants, and unsure what is required of him, a puppy who believes he is pack leader will usually exhibit many behavioural problems, of which chewing can be one.

Stop Puppy Chewing
Puppy chewing, then, is both a natural and necessary behaviour but can also be a symptom of other issues which require an alteration to our own behaviour patterns. But by providing our puppies with clear leadership and plenty of human contact and stimulation  – as well as a number of exciting chew toys – it is possible to stop puppy chewing and get through the puppy phase relatively unscathed.
In particular, responsible crate training is the perfect way of preventing an unsupervised puppy from chewing anything he shouldn’t and will give you a better chance of protecting your prized possessions.

Dog Obedience Training - Is Your Dog Smarter Than You? By Becky

When it comes to dog obedience training many owners think they have their dog under perfect control when, quite often, it is completely the other way round. Okay, so your dog might ‘sit’ when you ask him to or even ‘shake a paw’, but when it comes to day-to-day living are you really so confident that you have the upper hand or is your dog calling the shots?

Intelligence Quiz
Answer the five questions below to see how clever your dog is:
1. If you’re relaxing on the couch watching your favourite TV program and your dog comes up to you with his favourite toy in his mouth and nudges your leg do you:
A. Completely ignore him
B. Stroke him but ask him to lie down
C. Quit watching your program and join in a game
2.  If you’re walking your dog on the leash and he keeps pulling do you:
A. Immediately stop, turn and walk in a different direction
B. Stop and change direction a couple of times but then give in because you’re in a hurry
C. Keep shouting at your dog to ‘heel’ but still allow him to pull on the leash all the way to the park
3.  If you’re eating a meal and your dog is sitting right next to you with imploring eyes do you:
A. Tell him to go to his bed
B. Not feed him at the table but then put any leftover scraps in his bowl as soon as you have finished
C. Give him the odd morsel at the table – he’s just too cute to resist
4. If your dog is in lying in the middle of the kitchen floor whilst you are preparing supper do you:
A. Tell him to go to his bed
B. Leave him where he is and keep stepping over him and moving around him
C. Leave him where he is and toss him the odd bit of food as you are preparing it
5. If you are out on a walk with your dog off the leash, you call him and he refuses to come back immediately do you:
A. Turn your back and run as quickly as you can in the opposite direction
B. Stay where you are and keep shouting at him to come back
C. Chase after him

If you answered mostly ‘C’s’ to the above questions then your dog has you well and truly under his paw; mainly ‘B’s’ and you’re losing control. If you scored ‘A’s’, then ‘congratulations’, you’re clearly showing your dog you are in charge.

Of course, this might all seem like a bit of fun, but dogs that consistently get their own way can rapidly become problem dogs. In their eyes, they are elevated to the status of pack leader and, therefore, have no need to give any respect to their owners. This will manifest itself in all sorts of undesirable behaviour which may include aggression, destruction and territorial marking.

So, if you think your dog might be getting the better of you, you may want to reassess the relationship between you and your dog obedience training before serious problems begin.

Why Is Your Dog Jumping Up On People? By Suzanne

dog jump Why Is Your Dog Jumping Up On People?
Let’s face it, a crazy dog jumping on people does nothing for your social life. Whether it be a couple of friends coming round for a coffee or a full blown evening meal for your partner’s work colleagues, no matter how much effort you put into creating a warm welcome, nothing can compete with the over-enthusiastic welcome of a highly excited, slobbering hound launching itself at your guests’ chests at high speed as soon as you open the front door.

Dogs jumping on people is a common problem and can cause a lot of stress in an otherwise calm household. But to effectively tackle the problem, you first need to understand exactly why your dog is jumping on people.

Instinctive Behaviour
As pack animals, dogs are highly social and jumping up is actually their way of saying ‘hello’.  The behaviour starts as a puppy and takes the form of a request for food. In the wild, wolf cubs greet the returning adults by licking their lips as a way of encouraging them to regurgitate food. So the purpose a puppy jumps up at humans is to reach our faces, instinctively for the same reason. And although (hopefully) none of us ever regurgitates food for our puppies, we do usually give them a positive response for their behaviour. Puppies are so cute and it makes us feel good that they are so pleased to see us, so it’s only natural to bend down to them and give them lots of fuss and attention.

And herein lies the problem. By giving a positive response to our puppy’s jumping up, we are inadvertently rewarding them for their behaviour – and so they continue to do it all the more. Unfortunately, while it may seem cute for a puppy to jump all over us, as your dog matures into a hefty adult, it becomes rather less of a pleasurable experience. Even if you have a toy breed, it can still be a big nuisance to have the little thing scrabbling up yours (and your visitors’) legs every time you walk through the door.

But there’s an even more serious consequence of our unwitting response to our dog jumping on people.

Who’s ‘Top Dog’ In Your House?
The real issue that arises from allowing – and unwittingly encouraging – your puppy to jump up and greet people is that you are giving the puppy a very clear message that we respond to his wishes – ie, that he is allowed to dominate us and our visitors. And, unfortunately, as the puppy matures into an adult, and his need to establish his status in the family ‘pack’ becomes more acute, this message is so clearly imprinted in his brain that he figures out that he must be the pack leader. Worse still, as pack leader he now has a duty to protect his home territory and other pack members so you may find that what was once a friendly welcome takes on a rather more aggressive stance.

Unfortunately, this is just the tip of the iceberg; dogs which assume the role of pack leader exhibit all sorts of dominant behaviour issues because, quite frankly, they have no need to listen to you or respect your wishes.

To discover the easiest way to stop your dog from jumping on people – and to find out more about how to become your dog’s pack leader – visit www.thedogtrainingclub.com.

More Puppy Obedience Training By Becky

dog fetch More Puppy Obedience TrainingPuppy obedience training doesn’t have to be boring. In addition to the standard basic training commands – sit, stay, down, come, heel – you and your dog can have lots of fun working on more advanced training that focuses on working your dog’s individual talents. It will also help prevent problem behaviour.

Wasted Talents
Dogs which were originally bred to do a certain kind of work are likely to be specialists in that field – for example, collies love to herd, retrievers love to retrieve, terriers love to chase and dig and hounds love to track.

The problem is that in our modern society, dogs are seldom used for the purposes for which they were originally bred. And if you fail to give your dog a suitable replacement activity, he is likely to use his natural ‘talents’ in inappropriate and undesirable ways. Collies will often resort to chasing cyclists, joggers and children. Hounds will take off into the hills as soon as they are let off the leash. Terriers are likely to dig up your yard and Retrievers may steal objects or become mouthy or possessive.

Creating Replacement Activities
Fortunately, there are lots of alternative activities available for you and your dog that both of you should find rewarding and fun and which will satisfy your dogs natural talents. They are also a great way of doing your puppy obedience training and reinforcing the bond between you. Such activities include:

Agility
Agility can pretty much be likened to show-jumping for dogs. It’s great fun and gives your dog the opportunity to really run, jump and use his mind whilst improving your general control of your dog outside and off the leash.

Although you are more likely to see collies performing in agility trials on TV, agility is suitable for – and usually enjoyed by – all breeds of dog, even small ones. The only pre-condition is that your dog has reached physical maturity so that damage to growing bones and joints is avoided. The age at which physical maturity occurs varies from breed to breed, with large breeds taking the longest to mature. You should check with your vet before enrolling in a class to ensure that your dog is fit and ready.

Dancing With Dogs
This sport is becoming increasingly popular and is generally separated into two disciplines: heelwork to music and ‘freestyle’.  Again, dancing will give your dog (and you) a great physical and mental workout and improve the rapport between you. Dancing is particularly well suited to lighter and more agile breeds of dog.

Free Tracking
Free tracking is particularly enjoyable for Retrievers and Hounds and is brilliant for owners who don’t have the time to join an organised group activity.

When you are out on your walk, lay a simple track by walking without your dog in a straight line over undisturbed ground for about 20 metres. Place something your dog really likes – a toy or some food – at the end of it and continue to walk for another 5 steps before retracing your steps back to your dog. Then encourage your dog to use his nose to find the treasure trove at the end.

Once your dog has the hang of this, you can build in more complex zig-zags into your trail to really test his nosework.

So there you have 4 puppy obedience training activities the will harness the power of your dog's natrual tallents in a positive way and avoid boredom and behavioral problems.

Separation Anxiety And Dogs By Suzanne

anxiousdog 300x289 Separation Anxiety And Dogs
Why Does It Happen?
Anxiety related problems – and, in particular, separation anxiety – usually occur as a result of a dog’s over-attachment to its owner.  Essentially, the dog becomes so emotionally attached to its owner that as soon as it is left alone it feels enormous tension – and this manifests itself in numerous undesirable ways.

Dogs that suffer from separation anxiety may display one or all of the following characteristics in their owner’s absence: soiling, destructiveness, excessive barking/whining and even self mutilation.  As with dominance aggression, separation anxiety is a behavior that owners find difficult to live with.

In fact, owners often make the problem worse by venting their own frustrations on their dog when they return to the house – shouting at it, rubbing its nose in its business, even hitting it.  As a result, the dog not only gets highly anxious about its owner leaving but is also anxious about what will happen to it when its owner gets home.  And just as we humans look for ways to relieve anxiety, so dogs crave a release from their stress too.  But dogs can’t light up a cigarette or help themselves to a stiff drink.  And they can’t go out for a run unless we take them.  Their natural response to fear and tension, then, is to chew, scratch, soil or make noise.  And the problem quickly becomes a vicious circle.

The only way to effectively address an anxiety problem, then, is to address the root cause , namely, the over-attachment.

What Is The Cause of Over-Attachment?
Almost invariably you find that dogs which suffer from separation anxiety are given a huge amount of attention at home.  Often, it arises in households where the owners are at work all day and so, feeling guilty about the lack of attention their dog has had during the day, they try to make up for things by doting on their dogs when they get home.  Separation anxiety is also common in households where there are no children and the dog is treated as a child substitute, sleeping on the beds and furniture, being fed lots of treats and human food and following (and being encouraged to follow) its owner everywhere.

Owners enjoy the warm feeling they get from having their dog’s unconditional love and presence.  But whilst dogs enjoy love and attention too, too much of a good thing can be bad!  Dogs whose every whim are satisfied by their owners not only become clingy but usually also have dominance issues because they have unrestricted privileges and are never asked to work for anything.

Unfortunately, this causes a double dose of anxiety: not only is the dog anxious when its owner is gone but (as the perceived leader of the family pack) it also feels an acute sense of responsibility to do something about the situation.  The problem is, it doesn’t know what or how.  And so it becomes even more anxious.

What Can You Do?
Tackling separation anxiety requires the introduction of both short and medium to long-term measures.

Separation Anxiety Short Term

Damage Limitation
In the short-term, you will have to do what you can to minimize the damage, mess and noise that your dog can cause while you are away from the house.  That may mean crating your dog (although this is not acceptable as an all day measure) or confining him to just one room of the house where he is able to cause the least amount of damage and where it is easy for you to clean up any accidents.  You should also leave your dog with a choice of good quality chew toys – Kongs stuffed with some food are normally a good distraction.  You may also need to have a word with your neighbors to explain why your dog is making so much noise and ask for their understanding and patience while you tackle the problem.  If possible, get somebody else to come into the house while you are out to give your dog some attention and exercise.

Separation Anxiety Long Term

Cool Off The Relationship
Alongside the short-term measures, you will have to embark on a longer-term course of action aimed at reducing your dog’s anxiety when you are not around.  Initially, this training will take place when you are at home.  Make sure you have frequent, but initially short, periods when you completely ignore your dog and just get on with your daily routines.  Even if your dog is glued to your side or whining for attention, you must not talk to your dog, touch him or even look at him.  Then, when you are ready – and at a time when your dog is calm and quiet – call him to you, ask him for a ‘sit’ and give him some attention.

With any luck, and provided you hold firm on not making any communication at all with your dog during ‘time-out’, you should get to a point where your dog is not following you around quite so much and you can gradually increase the time periods that you ignore him.  If you are finding that your dog is still constantly following you, then you could use a child gate to partition off one room in the house where you can leave your dog.  Don’t make any fuss of him when you decide to leave the room.  Just calmly walk through the gate, close it behind you without looking at your dog and walk away, completely ignoring any whining or barking.  When you return to your dog’s room continue to completely ignore him for at least five minutes or as long as it takes for him to become calm.  You can then call him to you and give him some quiet praise.

You will need to gradually build up the length of time you leave your dog whilst you are actually in the house, only moving onto a longer period of separation when he is comfortable (not whining, being destructive etc) at a shorter one.  Once you have got up to half an hour separation periods in the house, you might then start going out of the house for short periods (starting at five or ten minutes and building up), again, following the same procedure of not making any fuss of your dog either when you leave or return.  If you are patient and consistent, somewhere along the line your dog will realize that his world doesn’t fall apart when you are not there and will be quite happy with his own company.



Establish Yourself As Pack Leader
As mentioned above, anxiety is often heightened when dogs have inadvertently been given the message that they are pack leaders.  How are they supposed to protect the pack when the pack leaves without them?  By making just a few small changes to your daily routine you can clearly show your dog that you are, in fact, in charge.  Examples include not feeding your dog until after you have eaten, not allowing your dog to lie on your bed or the furniture, making sure your dog always does something for you (even a simple ‘sit’) before you give him attention, and using child gates to restrict your dog’s access to certain areas of the house.  You should also involve your dog in short, daily training sessions.  As above, cool off your relationship with your dog in the house: build periods into your day where you deliberately ignore your dog so that he learns that your presence doesn’t always mean attention.  As soon as your dog understands that he does not have to assume the responsibilities of the dominant pack leader, he will visibly relax and be more accepting of your absence.

Exercise More
It’s often said that a tired dog is a happy dog.  And it makes perfect sense that a dog who has had a long walk first thing in the morning is far more likely to settle down and rest when his owner leaves the house.  So if you have to go out to work and leave your dog in the house for a prolonged period of time, make sure you set your alarm early and get out in the fresh air with your dog before you go.  And, if you can, get a friend, neighbor or dog-sitter to come in during the day to take your dog out for another short walk.  Even if you don’t have to go to work all day, regular sufficient exercise will provide your dog with the positive attention he craves as well as vital mental and physical stimulation that will leave him feeling more relaxed in the house.

Supercharge Dog Obedience Training With The Help Of A Clicker By Becky

dog sit training Supercharge Dog Obedience Training With The Help Of A ClickerWhen it comes to dog obedience, clicker training is still a relatively new training tool but is quickly gaining popularity as more and more professional trainers see the benefits. Clicker training can improve your dog’s health, activity and attitude and generally make him more contented.

What Is Clicker Training?
Clicker training is the popular term for a science-based system called ‘operant conditioning’. In short, it is a method which relies upon giving positive reinforcement and a marker signal to build a new behaviour.

The first to develop and expand the clicker technique were dolphin trainers but now all sorts of ‘untrainable’ animals are being taught to respond to the clicker – even cats.

The reason for its success is that it is a rewards based training method that animals respond well to. Animals don’t enjoy being yanked, prodded, whipped or shouted at and old-fashioned training methods are often counter-productive.  Focusing on positive reinforcement makes the training experience a whole lot more pleasurable for both man and beast and can significantly accelerate training time.

How To Get Started
There are two requirements for clicker training: some kind of desirable reward (usually food) and some kind of marker to signal that the desired action is performed. To make sure your pet doesn’t get fat, you can set aside a portion of his daily kibble ration as training treats. As for the clicker, you can buy a specialist clicker from any good pet store for just a few dollars or you could make do with the click of a ball point pen or even use a whistle.

Next, you go into a quiet room with your dog and ‘charge up your clicker’ by letting your dog smell the treats and then simultaneously clicking and tossing or giving the dog a treat. Do this half a dozen times until you have really got your dog’s attention.

Then it’s a question of watching him and giving a click the instant he performs a desired behaviour – for example, he may sit or lie down and look at you expectantly. Timing is vital. The click must happen as the action takes place and the reward must be given immediately afterwards. This is exactly how dogs learn in nature.

Don’t make the session too long – five minutes is plenty – and focus on just one desired behaviour in a session.

Introducing Basic Cues
Once your dog has become familiar with the clicker, you can begin to introduce training cues so that the dog learns to respond in a certain way when you want it to, not just by accident.
 
Watch carefully for desired behaviours. For example as soon as you see your dog beginning to sit or lie down, give a hand signal, or the command ‘sit’ or ‘down’, immediately click, during the action, and then treat.

Or to teach recall, take every opportunity throughout the day to call your dog to you by his name and adding the cue – “Billie, come” – and as soon as your dog starts moving towards you, click and then treat as soon as he arrives at your feet.

Each time you get the sequence to occur – you ask your dog to come, he comes, you click during the action and then treat – the more powerful that cue will become. The clicker adds an extra powerful dimension to the learning process.

You can discover more about dog obedience and clicker training at www.thedogtrainingclub.com.